Words cannot sum up the waves of elation and fear that I cycled through before coming to London. I experienced highs and lows that were tough to recover from. I knew to expect some degree of culture shock, but I also hoped the fact that I spoke the primary language would lessen this. Upon arriving at Bloomsbury after an extended plane ride, I was met with historic buildings lining every block and countless cafe and eateries. Underneath these gothic and baroque buildings was a lively and cosmopolitan city. Reading A Tale of Two Cities shaped my expectations going into this experience. I foresaw the pretentious nature embodied by Stryver, the deep emotional repression characterized by Carton and Mr Lorry, and the heated loyalty comically portrayed with Miss Pross. As with all stereotypes, these were grossly overstated and simplified. At every restaurant and street corner, I found some genuinely kind and welcoming people. Coming from the midwest but going to school at USC, I have seen some of the best and worst people. What I have found in this city and its inhabitants is nothing but a genuine love for their country and an appreciation for the beautiful city they call home. One look inside Fortnum & Mason did confirm the poshness, but I’ve learned it derives more from an appreciation for culture and history than anything else.

A Tale of Two Cities presents London in a somewhat negative light. Dickens describes it as “old-fashioned..very small, very dark, very ugly, very incommodious” (55). I can see hints of what would bring about this description, but on the whole London is not this at all. Visiting old buildings gave me a far better idea of what it would have been like for the characters of A Tale of Two Cities to venture about and live their life. Some of these buildings appeared smaller and packed in tightly with other buildings. Despite this, there is much beauty to be found in these locations. On Friday, we explored a highly realistic portrayal of a London house from this era. The house (Dennis Severs’ House in Spitalfields) was remarkably well kept and accurate to the age, and it conveyed a true sense of the era. From the rumpled sheets to the freshly buttered bread on the table, there was a deep sense that someone had just been there and lived this life. The house was gorgeous, with plush chairs, vanity mirrors, and four poster beds. I can imagine there was a significant variance in the houses of the time, but even this modest house was a place you could call home. I can easily see Lucie Mannette lounging in the reading room and sitting with her husband, or Doctor Mannette seeing patients in the house. Houses like these have long disappeared from London in the face of modernization, but many old buildings still remain. The original city of London still holds the bones of centuries past. The great fire has changed a lot, but just walking around, you can see the blend of old and new elements. There are gothic financial buildings seated next to towering high rises. The city has done a great deal to maintain the deep history it holds, while still embracing advancements. Every destination we walk, I try to picture the characters of A Tale of Two Cities sitting where I am. I imagine Mr Lorry walking out of Tellsons to the bar, or Carton sitting in a pub and drowning his pain. Dickens does a fantastic job of creating well developed characters, but his location ability to craft a sense of the culture and style of London deserves recognition. Bookpacking has brought his words and characters to life by bringing us to the setting.

Another expectation I went into London with concerned weather. I have seen lovely photos of an overcast sky and drizzle, and I’ve heard many complaints about the unrelenting rain. What we were greeted with instead was a heat wave with two record-setting days that plunged into the 100s. Coming from a state where reaching 100 was an average summer, I was surprised by how unprepared London was for the heat. Metro stations shut down, museums closed, and national weather advisories were announced. I will admit weakness (against my proud Chicago blood) and say that it felt HOT. The usual layer of clouds was nowhere to be found, so there was no break from the heat except to seek shelter for lunch in a historic pub known as Ye Olde Cherschire Cheese (pictured to the right). We all enjoyed some truly British food in the pub and mentally recreated the many nights Carton and the other characters would have spent here. We fought through the heat for the sake of our daily walks and explorations, but it became difficult. The gloomy and ominous setting of A Tale of Two Cities is mirrored by the brewing anger of the people. In one section, the heavy rain is directly compared to the masses rising up and taking to the streets. Every character in the book knows that a storm is coming. The revolutionaries are building up their numbers, and this will all come to a head in 1789. I was hoping to channel this angst with dark clouds and intermittent rain but was met with a much different landscape. The heat eventually cleared and we were treated to a cool and overcast day on Thursday. Everyone in London seemed much more at home with this melancholic weather, and we were able to walk in relatitive ease with the temperature drop.

It’s difficult to travel to any foreign country and neglect to discuss food. London food has always had the reputation of being bland, overcooked, and certainly nothing to write home about. I did engage in my fair share of truly British food (meat pie, peas, etc.). It was well made but compared to the fantastically tasteful home dishes of other countries, it was unremarkable. This isn’t to hate on London, as the food scene is stellar. There are countless food markets offering cuisines from every country in the world. During our stop at the Borough food market, I had a Chinese bao and Indian Chana masala. Both were incredible and highly representative of the variety of food offered. There is an entire Chinese district in Soho, Brick Lane in the east end is known for its celebration of Bangladeshi culture and food, and there are countless multicultural food markets like the Upmarket which are devoted to offering cuisine from around the globe. The food scene in London left nothing to be desired, and it speaks to how far the city has come in terms of diversity. I never expected to be introduced to some of my new favorite dishes in London. The city described in A Tale of Two Cities was old and unwelcome to foreigners. The London I found was far different, and was filled to the brim with diverse restaurants and stores representing every corner of the globe. Every city is known for areas that represent other cuisines. Chicago has Chinatown, Detroit has Greektown, and Little Toko and Koreatown are well-known areas of Los Angeles. London extends beyond this. Though there are specific areas representing different cultures, it is harder to find an area that DOESN’T have restaurants catering to every country. The popularity and quality of these casual and sit-down dining options speak to the diversity of the area. It is difficult to picture the characters of A Tale of Two Cities faring in a city with such a diverse and well-rounded food scene and population. I never had a dissapointing meal, and it was a highlight of my trip that I wasn’t expecting. Thankfully, Paris is also a food capital and so my foodie heart has something to look forward to there as well.

It is dangerously easy to filter every new city and country we visit through the frame of reference of our own. This often creates a bigger emphasis on what is lacking. When first arriving at London, I was dissappointed by the lack of ice and the consistent absence of air conditioning. I do miss these, but keeping an open mind is key to discovering all the uniqueness found in each new country. London was an absolute adventure. I love the rich culture that can be found in the many museums or even just walking along a street. I love the many food markets which introduced me to countless new dishes I hope to find back home as well. Most of all, I love the creativity and dynamism that you can feel pulsing through the city. Where else would our group stumble upon a streetwide salsa dance class and be offered an entire bottle of wine? I have a great appreciation for the US, and this appreciation has only grown from the week I have spent in London. The world is big, and I hope to spend my life exploring every corner.