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Paris: An Anthology of Churches

If there’s one thing that Catholicism is known for, it’s the incredible grandeur and utter beauty of its churches. Why else would millions of travelers visit famous Basilicas and Cathedrals every year, regardless of their own religious tradition? The answer is simple: stained glass and staggering architecture.

I grew up in the Catholic Church, and before USC, my 13-year education was made up entirely of Catholic schooling, so I have been to my fair share of beautiful Catholic churches. A few notable ones include St. Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City, the Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception in Washington D.C., several of the Catholic Missions in California, and many smaller local churches with beautiful gothic influence. Even with this background, I have never seen a place with a density of gorgeous churches that could ever compare to Paris. 

Saint Gervais and Saint Protais Church

Thus far, we have had 4 days of exploration in France. We are averaging about 1.5 churches per day, and as a result, my camera roll is growing by hundreds of photos a day. Clearly I, as well as millions of other tourists, cannot get enough of the gorgeous stained-glass storytelling that decorates the walls of every church I pass.

On the first day, we visited a church in the 4th arrondissement called Saint Gervais and Saint Protais Church. (Note: arrondissement is like a district. Paris has 20 of them, and I am *finally* getting the hang of what’s where.) From the outside, this church looked large, but quiet and under-visited. There were hardly any people on the corner where it sat, and it had little-to-no signage that would indicate its significance, so naturally, I assumed it wouldn’t be very cool, because it’s hard to evade the grasp of Paris’ many tourists. As we entered the large red doors, I was blown away, not only by its high ceilings and beautiful stained glass, but the fact that a church this quiet and unassuming could be this beautiful. If anything, it made me anxiously excited to see what was to come in the higher-traffic churches ahead.

A scaffolded Notre Dame

The next day, we visited two absolutely amazing edifices: Notre Dame and Saint-Chapelle. Both sitting in the middle of the Seine, on the Île de la Cité, these churches have been visited by many for how gorgeous they are. Unfortunately, the devastating fire that engulfed Notre Dame’s roof in 2019 is still horribly felt in 2023. Several stories of scaffolding hide the flying buttresses and the spot where the gorgeous spire once stood. We could only take in this architectural masterpiece from afar under the circumstances, but its staggering face still draws dense crowds, happy to take a peek at whatever they can see through the construction. Across the Île stands a tiny chapel, incomparable to the side of Notre Dame, called Saint-Chapelle. I had never heard of this before, so I was completely surprised by what it had in store. I stepped into what used to be a private royal chapel and was met with the most incredible stained glass I have ever seen (and I mean EVER). In every direction, there was a Bible story depicted in extremely detailed glass, creating a kaleidoscope of a room when it is looked at from further back. Honestly, I was at a loss for words, and when I learned that it was built all the way back in 1248, I was all the more impressed. Also, for artwork this incredible to have been spared in all of the terrors and wars that have occurred in Paris over the last 800 years is absolutely remarkable. My least favorite part of the whole experience was having to leave. I could have stared at those vibrant, multicolored stories forever.

The breathtaking kaleidoscope of Saint-Chapelle

White flowers over unmarked graves

On Thursday, we made our way to the Chapelle Expiatoire. While this chapel could never measure up to Saint-Chapelle in its beauty, its history is uniquely poignant and powerful. The Chapelle Expiatoire sits humbly in the 8th arrondissement, looking almost like a typical Parisian corner, that is, until you step inside. A plot of beautiful white flowers separates two rows of largely-unmarked gravestones. This chapel was built on the site of a mass grave that was dug for the hundreds of beheaded casualties of the French Revolution, famously including Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette (who were eventually relocated to a more *exciting* place to be buried). On such an unassuming corner, it was haunting to walk over sites that housed horrific scenes of death without dignity only two centuries ago.

A large organ in the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prais

Friday’s exploration treated us to yet another incredible church. In the 6th arrondissement, the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés stands under a considerable amount of scaffolding (which is kind of a trend, im noticing). The inside, however, was filled with gorgeous ceilings, domes, and of course, stained glass. There is so much that can be absorbed by a slow stroll around an old church, and the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Pres was no different. Around each corner, I found incredibly detailed windows and statues, with everything complemented by the vibrant ceiling. 

In these four days, we visited too many Cathedrals, Basilicas, Abbeys, and Chapels to adequately explain them all without sounding redundant, but in less than a week, I have come to appreciate Paris as a true anthology of churches. On every square, there is yet another edifice, full of beauty, ready to be explored by passers-by. Each has their own unique origin, purpose, and story to tell its visitors, and at the same time, they all feel as though they are connected, creating a timeline of the influence of Catholicism and its incredible architecture on this great city.