My four-week adventure across Europe, and first foray out of the United States, has finally begun. After overcoming my traveler’s anxiety and a ten-and-a-half-hour flight, I found myself meandering through the Underground admiring its ease of access, convenience, and relative safety. While excited to see the sights and sounds of London, I had no real semblance of what the week ahead of me would look like, and looked forward to my next week of exploration.
“the horror of being ogled through the windows, by the heads exposed on Temple Bar with an insensate brutality and ferocity worthy of Abyssinia or Ashantee.””
The first couple of days in London was uncomfortable for many reasons other than the record-breaking heat, but for the look inside the political and legal centers. Both of these explorations offered an amazing introduction to London’s rich history, from the iconic Big Ben to the beautiful interior of Westminster Abbey. While enjoying these incredible sights, I was constantly reminded of the dark premise upon which many of these incredible structures were founded. Reading about the brutal imperialism that characterized Britain for centuries has always been interesting yet disturbing. However, reading about the heads of convicts openly displayed on Temple Bar described in A Tale of Two Cities was an entirely different experience. These heads hung right near Tellson’s Bank, were symbols of the control the government held over the people and their ability, more importantly, their willingness to execute their citizens for counts of petty crime. Before me were Buckingham Palace, the Palace of Westminster, and the Royal Courts of Justice; all physical manifestations of this immense power the British government possessed. Suddenly, these centers of social, political, and royal power were no longer vague concepts I was just reading about, but the storied landmarks from which the Empire was ruled for centuries. Nevertheless, these wonderful structures were a sight to behold, yet I was left pondering both the positive and the negative influence this city has had across the globe.
A particularly interesting story presented itself in the character of Ms. Pross, the caretaker of Lucie. She is the epitome of British properness in that she highly values respect, order, and conservatism in many ways. This type of image perpetuates the “British stereotype” that exists back in America, an image of an uptight British man/woman who is stuck in their ways is what comes to mind personally. Visiting places like Borough Market and Brick Lane this past week has completely shattered this stereotype and forced me to rethink what I and many other Americans view as “the British way” that Ms. Pross exudes. The incredible amount of diversity in culture, language, and fashion took me by surprise everywhere I went. I constantly found myself appreciating the welcomed chaos of the Tube stations, while also noticing the seemingly orderly system of jaywalking Londoners seem to have. Even stumbling across unexpected events, such as the festival in Aldgate Square celebrating Latino culture transported me back home and connected my culture with London in a way I never anticipated. Witnessing these wonderful shows of community, and cultural appreciation completely contradicts my stereotype of a typical Brit, one that was reinforced in A Tale of Two Cities, and reshaped my image of a typical Londoner. Rather, I realized that there is no “typical Londoner” as the people are much too diverse to be boxed into such a category, and exploring the simple facets of social life throughout the city revealed just this.
A small glimpse inside the world of Jarndyce!
Along the thread of being immersed in history through literature, our visit to Jarndyce Antiquarian Booksellers was uniquely powerful. For the duration of this trip, I have largely been relying on ebooks to read our selected texts. While functional, a considerable amount of the reading experienced is lost in the digital format compared to a physical text, and Jarndyce reflects just that. Entering the shop, it appears extremely orderly and visually appealing to the prospective buyer, however, stepping into the library in the back offices tells an entirely different story. What appeared to be a chaotic mess of books, loose papers, and textbooks was really a thoughtfully organized catalog of centuries of priceless English literature. Opening up first editions of Dickens’ work and seeing the wear and tear of decades of enjoyment forces you to reconsider the true value of a text, especially as time goes on. It was an important reminder to consider the value of a text within its given time. Not just when the story is set, nor when the time when it was written, or even the time when you read it for the first time, but when those who came before you first read it themselves. This was most fascinating in the books that were previously used in libraries, as the physical conditions told a story in and of themselves; hundreds of people enjoyed Dickens’ stories without knowing who had the book before them or who will after them. These 100+ year old books told more stories than just what was written in them, and truly embodies the beauty of a physical novel beyond the scope of words.
Overall, what resonated the most with me about my time in London is the very idea that there is no such thing a a "typical Londoner." Not only this, but Dickens' work inspired the realization that millions of people have lived, live, and will continue to live in such an incredibly diverse community. Learning and understanding that London may not have always been the metropolis of diversity and equality it is today has given me a newfound appreciation for a city once a stranger to me. While I’m sure this will not be my last word on London I can't help but wonder what my time in Paris will reveal!