Finding Familiar Faces in France

                         As I continued my journey as a flaneur during my final days in Paris, I came across many familiar faces. At Musee D’orsay, I saw several images of Fantine during her time of struggle. “La Misère, etude pour Famine” by Gustave Guillaumet is a clear depiction of her lifestyle with Cosette. I am instantly reminded of book five: The Descent. Hugo describes Fantine’s journey to her death that is filled with sorrow, sacrifice, and heartbreak. He states, “The further she fell and the darker everything around her became…. Fantine had aged 10 years since the day before.” (169). Drawn in chiaroscuro, the darkness of the piece is a true reflection of the period in her life. Fantine is laying down exhausted as the day has come to an end. The woman’s clothes are like rags hanging off her body, like those of Fantine when she is described as a “seamstress reverting to a peasant again…a poor and sorry sight.” (137). The placements of light in her sternum and breast show the frailness of her body. The dark shadows placed within her face (eyes, nose, and cheek) show the distress she is in. The way Guillaumet paints her eyes staring directly into the viewer is truly powerful. It shows that she once was a beautiful woman who has been torn down by life. Seeing the infant child attempt to grasp onto her mother’s breast reminds of what Cosette might have endured before Fantine gave her to the Thenadiers. Furthermore, adding to the point above Guillament’s use of lighting shows how famished the child is. It is like you can almost see her bones shining through. This painting is such a powerful depiction of Fantine through Hugo’s lens.

The next painting, I saw was at Musee D’orsay and a picture of a battlefield. This both reminded me of the Battle of Waterloo in Les Misérables and the Reign of Terror in A Tale of Two Cities. Unfortunately, I did not get the name of the artist, but their work was during the 1700-1800’s. The composition of this painting tells a story from beginning to end. At the top of the painting in shades of purple, brown, and gray depict a group beginning a battle with flags waving in the air. Being still and motionless, they are like a heavy cloud hanging above. Looking up they are fearless like Characters of Dicken’s such as Madame Defarge, Mender of Roads, and the man who killed Monsieur. As we start to look below, there is a field of dead men covered in blankets. Their swords are left untouched while there is a faint fire burning in the distance within the men. I am reminded of the sunken trenches; many soldiers lost their lives as well as the number of men that had to be buried. I briefly want to talk about the painting directly under this one, which is done by the same artist. This painting is in close relation with the Reign of Terror. Set in a town, dead bodies of all people fill the ground. The houses are missing windows, paint, anything once could imagine. Surrounded by dark clouds, the space is filled with pure destruction. One thing that struck me the most was a single religious cross standing on a table. Out of all the chaos, this piece symbolizing faith is the only thing that has survived. I believe this is key because France is heavily influenced by Catholicism. I think about all the chapels we visited.

The final piece I’d like to discuss is Atala Portee Au Tombeau by Girodet-Trioson, found in the Louvre. I chose this painting because it reminded me of Jean Valjean and Marius’s long battle over the love of Cosette. Trioson paints a woman being held by two men on each side of her like a seesaw. The woman is angelic as she lays between the two. She is covered in a white cloth with her hands clasped signaling contentment. At one end the young man is holding her at her feet. Taking a closer look at his face, the lighting shows he is in despair. His eyes are closed, and forehead frowned as he grasps on to her for dear life. One could compare this to Marius’s great depression he faces when Jean Valjean stops bringing Cosette to the park. Furthermore, the placement of this young man mentioned above can be a symbol of marriage. Traditionally, when one is proposed to, their partner gets on one knee. His placement is a clear depiction of his unwavering love for this woman, it will break his soul to lose her. On the other side of the spectrum, the older gentleman is holding her by her arms, making sure her neck is stable. To some extent, one could argue this is a position of a caregiver. When bringing home, a child for the first-time doctors tells parents to make sure their hand and neck are supported. In my opinion, this man is Jean Valjean. Thinking of Hugo’s various descriptions of him, the first one that comes to mind is when he arrives at the Thenardiers in his long-hooded yellow coat. Currently is the start of his journey to fatherhood and love for the young child. In this painting, I see him doing just that, holding onto the love he felt, scared he will lose it to this young man. Furthermore, looking at the woman caught between these two men, I think of the internal battle Cosette faced. In Trioson’s painting one could infer that the woman is dead, however in my interpretation it is a reflection Cosette’s soul. As written by Hugo, her life is full of tragedies. She is now caught between two men she loves: Father and lover. At first Jean Valjean moves her away from Marius twice, next Marius stops Valjean from seeing her once they are married. Constant mishaps continue to happen to her, yet she is written in a way that her feelings do not matter like Lucie of A Tale of Two Cities.

As I end my journey as a flaneur, I am amazed at Paris’s beauty. It is a place rich in culture ranging from art, food, and religion. History is everywhere! Reading Les Misérables and A Tale of Two Cities helped me realize what this great city has to offer besides of tourist attractions. If I did not embark on this journey, I would have never viewed art through literary lens. It has been such an amazing experience for me. 

Versailles: I say revolt !

Visiting Versailles brought vivid imagery to my eyes. I was able to fully understand what France was like during the time leading up to the revolution. In reading a “Tale of Two Cities” and additional history, I can see both perspectives of the royal family and everyday people. Walking in the palace extends twelve miles totaling an entirety of 2,014 acres. My first thought was “ wow! This is huge. Does one family really need all this space?”. The palace is beautifully decorated, however, it is very flashy. It seems as if the Louis lineage had to make it known that they were wealthy. Almost every wall is decorated with massive religious paintings all from the Renaissance era. They are large and extravagant. I imagine it must’ve cost a pretty penny to get those works commissioned over the years. However, I did think it was a little ironic. For France to be heavily influenced by catholicism, one would think King Louis would’ve took into consideration the well being of his people. For Mark 12:31 states “ Love your neighbor as yourself”. Looking at many biblical references, there is no doubt the God loved all his people and saw no difference. One should treat others how they want to be treated.

 King Louis XVI was entirely too flashy. His expansion of the gardens is ridiculous. As I was walking through some questions that popped through my head consisted of:  Why is the garden so big? Did they have horses take them around? Were the children even allowed to play? Did they get lost? Learning more about the daily life of the nobility was also interesting. I often questioned how can one be so greedy but then I had to remind myself money can be the root of all evil.  I particularly enjoyed visiting Marie Antionette’s quarters: Le Domaine De Trianon. I found it more realisitic and overall wholesome. King Louis XIV, knew what he was doing when he began constructing it for his mistress, Madame de Montespan. It indeed is a place of intimacy.  I thought the cottages with surrounding lakes was very tasteful and an excellent place for children to grow up. 

Reflecting on “ A Tale of Two Cities”, I understand the Reign of Terror and Storming of the Bastille. I empathize with the working class. Dickens’ use of audority sense as well the gory detailing makes sense. Marching up Versailles as a common person pleading for a simple necessity such as food, I would be truly disgusted with the King. How dare he raise taxes to pay for his lavish lifestyle? I would be livid and demand the guillotine as well.  King Louis XVI didn’t even think about inviting the working class to an annual ball where he could show his appreciation for the people of France who work hard daily to keep him afloat. There were two characters that stood out to me as I continued my visit: Madame Defarge and the Marquis. The scene of the woman asking the Marquis for help with the burial of her dead husband and him snarking back basically saying no because he can’t help a dead man infuriates me. I feel that woman’s pain. The Marquis was no king but one could consider him apart of the nobility since he was an aristocrat. His character is the perfection depiction of those who suffer from the sin of greed. He does not care about the people he exploits, comparable to King Louis XVI.

I thought about Madame Defarge as well due to her rage. To learn what happened to her family only reminded me how the rich get away with so much. The Louis Lineage had their way for years.  In thinking of all these things, I came to the conclusion that the French Revolution was successful because it was a radical progressive movement that did not care about bloodshed. The brutality enforced a change. Looking at modern movements, the Black Panther Party was mainly successful due to unity, radicalism, and forcefulness. Huey P. Newton, Angela Davis, and Bobby Seale knew in order to make a change one has to present confidence and muscle towards their oppressor. Another comparable example would be the 2021 storming of the Capitol building. Trump supporters were united in a goal and did not care about the consequences. They exuded superiority, confidence, and force. That is why they were successful other than the fact of their white privilege. Although beautiful Versailles to me is a memory of oppression, bloodshed, and rebirth.

Imprisoned in Paris

Visiting the Conciergerie was quite interesting. I was able to make connections to the U.S. as well as Dickens. Walking in you are greeted with space and stone walls. The architecture is quite amazing. Reading how prisoners had to pay for their beds despite being arrested is mind-boggling to me. It shows how the French Govt had little empathy for its people and suffered from greed. Another interesting fact I learned was that all classes no matter their rank in society were held there. On average, an estimate of 3% of the total population was from the nobility. In thinking of today’s criminal justice system, the concierge could be loosely related to the general population within jails or prisons. It is a mix between the two but mostly comparable to jails. Those in the Conciergerie committed crimes from various levels and were all awaiting trial or sentencing. In similarity, those in jail are awaiting trial or held on minor crimes resulting in sentencing of less than a year. Consequently, the majority of classifications in jail fall under gen pop. Gen pop can be described as confined, loud, and dirty. Inmates are housed in bunk beds positioned side by side, enclosed by one door. Furthermore, to paint the picture of this lovely housing, as of 2021 California’s total prison population alone was 647,200 people alone. During the reign of terror, between 1793-1795 an estimate of 2700 people were detained in the la Conciergerie while awaiting their death. That is a lot for this time period. Standing inside and reading about their treatment, I could not help but think about Charles Darnay. He must’ve been going through a series of emotions including, fear, disgust, and defeat. After renouncing his family and living an “honest life” and having a family this is what his life has come to. Imagine having to sacrifice the comfortable living of your wife and kids to pay for meals/beds in a slump. How pathetic! Moreover, moving on to Sydney and his great sacrifice. His walk from this hell to the road of redemption through the tumbrils. Interesting Dickens’s idea of redemption is death, however, death can be transcending. For Sydney, it is, his sacrifice is classified as his rebirth. Spiritually, it’s the end of one cycle and the beginning of another but I digress. Taking the journey to the guillotine was excruciating. It felt like a mile but imagine the scorching sun, people spitting, yelling, and throwing food at you. How Miserable! All because the majority had a difference in opinions. On top of that, you are going to literally get your head chopped off. No mercy. I empathize with Mr.Carton. For him to remain that strong, knowing what’s at the end of the journey shows true growth in self-awareness and confidence. 

An interesting point, I may bring up through our stroll is that France is highly religious. An estimate of 60% of the population identify as catholic. There are numerous amounts of churches, chapels, and cathedrals within the city. I also noticed the street names derive from catholicism. Upon walking into these places of worship, one is greeted with stunning architecture as well as paintings. All deriving from catholic ideology. It is truly beautiful but I can’t help but think of a recurring theme: religion as a social construct used to define superiority, inferiority, and gender roles. I say this with respect to all religions, however, I must make this point. Reflecting on Lucie and Madame Defarge's characters they serve as polar opposites. Lucie is considered to have the Angelic domestic role as a wife and parent. She has little thought and is expected to support her husband without any apprehensions. She strokes the ego of all male characters and sees the good in all. She is simply a woman without her own thoughts. Whereas Mdme Defrage is depicted as a blood-thirsty woman who sees revenge as the only option. To further this point of religious superiority, throughout the novel, Dickens mentions slaves in conversation with the old regime. During the time period, of A Tale of Two Cities, I’m interested to explore more of Dickens’s thought process in writing this novel. Is he thinking about religion? Is he thinking about slavery? Misogyny? What’s going on in his brain?

A Modern Take on Parisian Flaneurs

Continuing this journey as a book packer, I am becoming increasingly engulfed in the novels we are reading in class. It is now easier for me to empathize with each character. As we walk, stroll through the places they have been. Personally, Paris has made this connection for me seamless due to the flaneur lifestyle. In this short week as a flaneur, I have learned so much. I say revolt is the answer! First, I would like to talk about the French lifestyle and then move on to three experiences that made me reach this conclusion. Coming from Los Angeles where everything is moving at a fast pace has me questioning. In the states why are we pushed towards imposter syndrome, to hustle and bustle, with no days off? Whereas the French enjoy life and all it has to offer. As I am walking down the streets, people are laughing, smoking, and eating. It is so calming here, very much a leisure lifestyle that I want to learn more about. The piece by Edmund White speaks to the lifestyle of the French Flaneur or the flaneuse. He describes them as a “ mirror as huge as the crowd–or to a kaleidoscope outfitted with a consciousness that at every shake of the tube copies configuration of multifarious life and the graceful movement of all its elements.”( 1). Thinking of Gavroche, he offers so much experience to the novel Les Miserables. The young child is our inside look into the gritty life of Paris. He is the Gamin, the wanderer, the flaneur. Paris is his playground. He is forced to grow up because he is living on the streets but he also uses this to his advantage. He has acquired a great knowledge of street smarts. I instantly think of the chapter where he takes care of his brothers and shows them the ropes.My mind thinks of the homeless or even the scam artists walking the streets. The homeless make up 44% of Paris’s population, a little less than half. One could argue this is a loose comparison but very much accurate. They are the modern-day flaneurs or adult gamins. I say this with no negative connotation added. Several times I have had people come up to me and try to run a scam whether it was a lost coin, ring, or petition. In addition compared to London, there are more homeless visible on the streets. These two groups are one subset of the flaneur lifestyle. Like Gavroche, they see Paris for what she truly is outside of the glitz and glamor– the fine dining and fashion–. Both were failed by the system of some sort and have had to overcome a majority of challenges.  Although sad, we can look at this in a positive light and change our view of this community just as readers began to love Gavroche. Through this observation, one question struck me: what's going on in the world today? What is going on with the French economy? How are the taxes?

How's it going mate? Is London giving?

First, let’s get that hard stuff out the way. Monday and Tuesday were probably the most brutal days. We were just beginning and the temps were at a record-breaking high of 104. Between the heat, walking five miles a day, and the time change, it was extremely tiring. However, now reflecting on the week, things have gotten better. I believe we are all getting more comfortable being around each other and learning to go with the flow.

As I began this journey to bookpacking, I had little knowledge other than the basics of the history of the UK. Visiting Westminster Abbey brought up a different series of emotions for me. On one hand, I was amazed to literally walk through historic time periods but what came along with that was feelings of frustration and sorrow. With respect to history, I was upset that there is an entire industry catering to profiting off of the deceased. It felt invasive as people, myself included, walked over such prominent figures' burials. I instantly went into a spiral about capitalism but I digress. In contrast, seeing Rudyard Kipling, Sir Isaac Newton, and Charles Dickens invoked a sense of Joy and respect. It was a holy experience. Furthermore, the architecture was beyond beautiful. The intricate designs throughout the entire church were terrific. It is shocking to see how skillful these artists/designers were between the 13th and 16th centuries. To see that Gothicness up close and personal paired with the religious setting takes one on a journey back into time. I wanted to know more about its design, the amount of time it took to build, and what sophisticated techniques were used.

Continuing our tour to Jarndyce, I felt a spark of living rise as I flipped through the pages of books from centuries ago. This is the first time I felt a connection to the past. This was the first time I personally was able to bridge the gap between history and the present within the subject of literature in tangible means. I gained a newfound sense of empathy toward novelists. To be able to see firsthand Cruishank’s —a prominent figure within the art scene in London whose works were commissioned by other great authors — designs in Dickens' book was amazing. It was like each book was a mini magazine. I loved the comparison Andrew made in terms of how novels were like gossip back in the old days. One can almost compare the release of the novels to social media outlets such as Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook to name a few. Whatever a person's niche is on social media they are waiting for that next post. Another example could be the true-crime podcast or conspiracy theories. It is always so intriguing to come up with new theories or predict what comes next in a show. The anticipation that arises from experiences like so is similar to those of readers of Dickens and other great novelists. Furthermore, I was able to tap into the brain of a book conservator, something I’d never done before. It was so interesting to hear Josh passionately describe the conservator business. Not only are these books truly a piece of history but the work that goes into restoring them down to the intricate detail is just amazing.

As I watched Les Miserables the musical, I began to have much more appreciation for the novel, especially Hugo’s extended descriptions. Because so much was left Out, I felt that If I did not read the book, I would have had an extremely hard time following. Eponine and the Thenadiers’ were the best in my opinion. They had me full of emotions ranging from laughter to sorrow. ( Poor Eponine!) I’ve only seen a handful of musicals but after attending this one I have gained a new level of respect for the art of theater.

The house of Dennis Severs’ had to be the best excursion of the week for me! It felt very magical! Severs’ goal of the house being depicted as a still life definitely hits the mark. The entire experience was methodological in the best way possible. Having to remain silent throughout the entire tour allowed one’s mind to focus on the picture he painted with the design of his home. The Severs’ house required us to use every sense besides taste and it was amazing. It was a truly immersive experience. The various rooms reveal the contrast of personalities within the household based on layout, smells, sound, etc. I compared the soft music playing to Charles Dickens' use of auditory descriptions. The tobacco room was confined with the smell of cedar, whiskey, and musk. It candidly paints the portrait of a luxurious mantuary. While the drawing room was a point of focus and clarity. Everything had to be meticulously symmetrical. It was dainty and victorian. 

As this week comes to an end, I wish to pause and reflect with my peers. I would love to hear everyone’s perspective. Overall, I enjoyed London. It is definitely giving! The city is rich in history from all backgrounds, people, and perspectives. The fashion and museums are amazing.