Gratitude and Farewells

The past four weeks have been such an incredible experience. Traveling to Europe for the first time, taking the longest flights I have ever taken, seeing so many wonderful places and sites and buildings. What a blast this month has been!

When I arrived in London, I was excited, but I was also quite nervous. Would I make friends with the people in my class? Would I have enough time to attend lectures and excursions, complete my academic work, do my remote tasks for my job, and still have time to go places and see things? And the answer, thankfully, was yes.

If I had to sum up the past four weeks in one word, it would be gratitude. I am so fortunate to have been able to have this experience at this time in my life, and there wasn’t a single day that passed that I didn’t feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude for my circumstances. It has been so much fun to study A Tale of Two Cities and Les Misérables in the cities they take place in. Never in a million years would I have thought that I would get to experience something like this.

Reflecting on the 1832 barricades while standing in Les Halles, traversing the sewers thinking of Valjean and Marius, zig-zagging through the 13th arrondissement like Valjean and Cosette, storming Versailles like the 18th century peasants, walking along Fleet Street and visiting Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese as Dickens would have done, visiting the Palais Garnier–there were so many immersive adventures that I never would have been able to do in one trip, let alone one lifetime, if it weren’t for this experience.

Along with that, we were able to visit the Louvre, the catacombs, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, Luxembourg Gardens, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, and so much more. I’ll stop listing them for the sake of your eyes, but you get the jist.

Since I was in middle school, I have wanted to study abroad, and I have dreamed of visiting Paris since I was in single digits. This experience exceeded my expectations, and I hope the younger me, with keychains, notebooks, and postcards of the Eiffel Tower, is happy with what I got to see.

I have grown and learned so much over the past four weeks, and this was truly an experience that I will never forget. I haven’t quite had the time to process this month in full yet, as I have flown back to Los Angeles and immediately moved into my new apartment, so nothing has quite set in yet. When it does, I know it will be incredible. Until then, all I can leave you with is my gratitude and farewells, and a grand feeling of appreciation for this opportunity. Thank you all for coming on this journey with me. Bon Voyage! À la prochaine.

Dead Generals

Napoleon's tomb was equal parts overwhelming and underwhelming. It seemed strange, at first, standing above the pit where his casket lay, that such a notable figure lay dead and motionless in a rather plain looking box. As I've mentioned, the sheer significance and pull of Napoleon made sense to me, why people like Marius and his father might be drawn to him, and why men like Marius' grandfather may be terrified of him. But not even the beautiful wall carvings could elevate him in his final state. In fact, they made him seem somehow weaker, as though he were somehow still pleading for significance, even though he had nothing to do with his burial site. 

We visited the military museum afterwards, by far one of my favorite museums we’ve visited. Military history is fascinating to me, the sheer volume of pointless conflicts that have shaped history is terrifying, and the Napoleonic era is rife with the possibility of history changing at the slightest change. I got a real feel for how much of a game changer Napoleon was for France, beyond the simple fact that he won a lot. His changes to the military were significant, based on merit, and erased after his death. 

The conflict between Monarchists and Bonapartists seems odd, beyond being carved deeply into subconscious bias and belief, as Napoleon seems like everything a monarchist would want, beyond circumstances of birth. Reading some of the history in the museum, and it showed all the failures of previous kings before we reached Napoleon. There were victories, yes, against a failing Spain, but many failures too. Failures that helped prompt the revolution. Marius’ grandfather being so utterly enshrined against Napoleon feels more comical the more I learn about the monarchy. Incompetency and decadence. And the Bourbons tried to repeat that. I thought it even stranger, that Napoleon III was elected by the Liberals, Victor Hugo included. Bonapartism seem like an easy pull for monarchists.

Speaking on ideology, I really don’t understand how someone could be loyal to the French state when it seemed the French state was always changing. Javert’s character is a fascinating one, but one that comes with questions. Unlike Marius, his grandfather, or even the ABC, Javert seems to have no loyalty beyond loyalty to the law. With Monarchism, you have reverence to the idea of Kings and bloodlines. With Bonapartism, you have loyalty to the perceived greatness of one man. Republicans believe in the people voting for their own interests. Javert has no pull to any of these, only the idea of the “law”. The greatness of dead men does not appeal to him, neither do the dreams of the future. Napoleon invented the civil code, so perhaps he’d have some reverence there, and yet his current loyalty is to the regime that replaced him. Javert crumbling under Jean Valjean’s kindness is one thing, but I wonder if he would break down regardless as France continued its back and forth between Republic and Empire.

Back to the subject of graves, I also visited the largest cemetery in Paris. Père Lachaise It was more of a personal mission, though perhaps relevantly I found quite a bit to do with French revolutionary sentiment. I visited Nestor Makhno's burial site, housed in a large building called the Columbarium. Really it was more of a covering than a building, but regardless, it housed an impressive number of deceased. I wandered for a while, taking in again, the humbling nature of death, before I found his. It was a small little square with a metal image of his face. 

I should probably explain who he was, and how I found him particularly relevant. Similar to Napoleon, Nestor Makhno was a military leader emerging through revolution. Where they differ, is Makhno was an anarchist, while Napoleon declared himself emperor.  He founded the Ukrainian Black Army, an agrian, yet leftist, worker’s revolutionary militia in conflict with both the Red and White Army’s of the Russian Civil War  Whether Makhno would have kept his revolutionary leanings in event of victory isn’t something I can say– he didn’t win, and was exiled by the communists to Paris, ironically as Lenin once was. 

But I found his relevancy to this class not just in his contrast to Napoloeon, but for what he stood for, and for what he still stands for. One thing about Paris, is that although their revolutions never truly succeed, they never really fail either. Victor Hugo makes it clear in Les Misérables that his view of history is that it always moves forward to some ideal utopia, even in times of great tyranny. That perspective makes sense for a Frenchmen to have, I think, because for progressive minded people in France, when you view the entire history, failed revolutions still inspire. They still make clear the demands of the people, and threaten the current hierarchy. Makhno’s grave, as small and insignificantly placed as it was, was covered in flowers, graffiti, and even a poster for a blogger advertising desertion for soldiers fighting in the current Ukranian-Russo war. 

There are no anarchists in America, yet they still exist in France. I understood something about France at that moment, something about Paris. Revolution never dies there. 

People try to kill it, though. 20,000 people were killed in the Paris commune, and next I found myself standing at the single most significant memorial for that massacre in Paris, and it was a plaque on a wall. Again, there were flowers, and I did see an old couple visit. But it was pathetic. All those people killed, some grand, mad dream, and all it gets is a plaque? But Napoleon III gets a grand tomb. It was baffling. 

I thought back to the ABC students in Les Misérables. How varied they were, and relatable. How I saw myself in pieces of them, and tried to match who best I was in terms of my viewpoints. And then I thought about how in times of potential revolution, I probably would do something stupid and get killed, and hopefully get a plaque. I’d rather get a plaque, at least, than a sad looking box, or self-indulgent statue for people to gawk at.

Bookpacking Takeaways

A glimpse at what my camera roll looks like!

As I sit in my childhood bedroom and scroll through the thousands of pictures from my camera roll, I am overwhelmed with so much joy and appreciation for the countless memories I made throughout this bookpacking experience. I find myself lost in a reverie of reminiscence as each photo transports me back to a myriad of emotions that have colored my life in London and Paris. However, a single picture cannot encapsulate the personal growth and transformation I have endured this past month.

Before coming into this Julymester, I knew I would be embarking on a fascinating but challenging journey. English and literature have never been my forte so the idea of reading a 1,300-page novel was extremely daunting. I remember picking up Les Misérables for the first time and thinking to myself how am I going to get through this? There were times when I wanted to yell at Victor Hugo for going on his long tangents, but also times when he left me in complete awe at the beautiful messages hidden among the pages. It was undoubtedly difficult at times to read Les Miserables over the course of two months. The biggest challenge I faced while reading this novel was visualizing the story and the time period in which it takes place. However, going to Paris and seeking out the locations of Les Misérables completely transformed my appreciation for this lengthy novel and my relationship with literature in general. Being in the same location where the characters in the novel once stood truly made the book come to life and helped me connect with the characters on a deeper level.

I was able to connect with the friends of the ABC as we walked through the Latin Quarter and tried getting a fix on the approximate location of the Café Musain, the main meeting spot of the Les Amis de l’ABC. Walking these streets as opposed to reading this section at home I could imagine this area full of determined, fervent individuals in a time of social and political unrest. Going to the Luxembourg Gardens and peeking through the gates helped me connect with Cosette and Marius as that was where they locked eyes for the first time. I could imagine myself falling in love in those same beautiful gardens just like Cosette and Marius did. Going down underground to the Sewers Museum, I was able to connect with Jean Valjean and his treacherous journey from darkness to light. Getting to navigate through these dark, complex, and smelly sewers I was able to empathize with Jean Valjean and connect with Hugo’s deeper themes of redemption and transformation. With bookpacking, I have gained a completely new perspective on Les Misérables because I was able to experience a part of the story for myself. This entire experience has profoundly impacted my attitude towards literature, and when I pick up a book in the future I hope to incorporate some of my own bookpacking experiences to engage more deeply with the characters and themes in the text.

Cafe de Flore with Lili and Charlotte

Aside from learning to appreciate literature through a bookpacking lens, I have learned so much about the ways in which I want to live. Living in Paris for 3-weeks and immersing myself in the Parisian culture, I have noticed they do things differently compared to New York City and Los Angeles. On my walk and train ride to lecture every morning, I channeled my inner flâneur. Parisian culture has enabled me to be an observer and enjoy being in my own silence. I have learned that I don’t constantly need to be walking hand-in-hand with my phone or listening to my music as I stroll. Additionally, I have learned to enjoy eating long meals. I have loved sitting out at different French café’s with my friends and not rushing through the meal. In college, I am so used to grabbing a quick bite before my class or eating while doing a HW assignment. I have realized the importance of taking a break from my day to have time to relax and actually enjoy the food I am eating. As I get back to the fast-paced nature of New York City and Los Angeles I want to implement aspects of this lifestyle into my own life and change many of my antiquated ways.

I am so grateful for this incredible bookpacking experience and the many memories I have made in both London and Paris. I have met some of my best friends on this trip and have been honored to be taught by an amazing professor! And I can’t wait to take the countless lessons I have learned with me in the future.

The Louvre (and a Short Rant About Water)

The Louvre may have been THE highlight for this trip. What is there to say that doesn’t speak for itself? (I guess we’ll find out because I’m gonan write a blog about) it One of the grandest collections of art on the planet, and you’re given free roam of it. That’s pretty good.

It’s also pretty exhausting. The French don’t really believe in water fountains, I don’t think, which is especially tragic when the only two places to purchase water in the museum have lines comparable to the one in front of the Mona Lisa? But it was such a rare opportunity I persevered, my throat dry and my head pounding with a headache. I first headed to the section with all the typical goodies, the Mona Lisa, Liberty Leading the People, and The Coronation of Napoleon. They were all great, not at all disappointing like I’ve heard some say. The Mona Lisa was small, yes, but still, pretty amazing to see in person. But The Coronation of Napoleon, my god. The sheer detail is awe-inspiring. It should be comedic, this pompous little man superseding the pope in a silly outfit. But it’s not, in fact it’s beautiful. I will never not be shaken by the sheer propaganda of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Liberty Leading the People was equally inspiring. I’m no expert on visual art, and certainly not paintings, but there’s something about seeing the brush strokes in real life, versus in a picture or a print that make it pop more. This grand image of revolution, of surging forth over death and cries of war– this made for some pretty good propaganda as well. I almost bought some merch, and probably would have if what they offered in the gift shop was any better. I thought of the ABC, and the barricade, and the facing of certain death. The image of that flag waving in the musical, as shots are fired, is seared into my brain.

It would be remiss though, not to mention the somewhat strange depiction of her breast being out? And where does this image of female revolutionary leadership come from, the french seem a little enamored with it– see the Statue of Liberty – when women weren’t exactly seen as equals in the revolution. Better than what they had before, sure, but see Marie Antoinette, or Hugo’s rejection of women in the ABC or sidelining of Éponine for examples on how even progressives weren’t so great on that front.

I spotted this fun painting, though I can’t remember when. I was immediately reminded of Monseigneur in A Tale of Two Cities. The painting isn’t even unkind to the subject, it makes no statements about his character, so I have no idea what the artists' intention was. But this fat, pompous man attempting to appear regal atop his horse, while a whole group of servants surrounds him, is hilarious. I thought of Monseigneur requiring four men to serve him chocolate. They're even all in uniform! Heck, not just the clothes, but their hair is cut the same. It’s just so absurdly unnecessary, and more a display of wealth than it even is a luxury. There’s a servant here carrying an umbrella for him, despite the fact that he is on a horse and his servant isn’t. Is the only purpose of his servant walking to emphasize the wealth disparity? What’s the point? It’s such a profoundly comedic display of the indulgence of this kind of wealth. I wonder if this man commissioned this painting himself. I hope he did, it’s so ridiculous to imagine he thought this was a good idea.

On an unrelated topic, rather amazingly we found our Metro station is the very start of the 1968 riots, Les Goeblins. Every time I stepped down there, I somehow missed that this was the very heart of the revolution that wasn’t to be. Metros make sense, I realized. In the absence of the narrower streets that once belonged to Paris before Napoleon III decided to transform it, it’s a nice, easier place to defend. Plus, the tunnels can take you anywhere– there’s plenty of places to retreat to if you can’t defend yourself.

Also near us is the Latin Quarter, where there are narrower streets, and I can see barricades being far easier to throw up here. I think the barricades themselves, as do I think 1968, are a particularly interesting way to do revolution. The ABC attempts to inspire, not overthrow the government themselves. Essentially, the object is getting your message out, and survival. What’s amazing is that they don’t back down, even when there is no chance of victory. These young men died for a lost cause. It’s inspiring, it’s stupid, and it’s a piece of history I won’t forget.

Spooky Tunnels and Such

The sewers were certainly an interesting place to visit, to say the least. I had never quite imagined what a proper sewer looked like, and it was far more industrial appearing than I realized. In Les Misérables, I imagined it to be, for lack of a better word, far sleeker? Or perhaps just less busy in terms of pipes and whirring machinery. Obviously sewers now have more modern amenities, but with the industrial revolution, one could imagine sewers then were absolutely crowded with machinery and new pipes. I guess I had a weirdly more romantic image of it in my head? Certainly reinforced by the musical, after watching it whenever I thought of it I gave it the same ominous green glow, but seeing it in person really hammered in what an ugly, bleak, and smelly place it is. I really internalized what a terrible experience what wandering around in there would be like. Well lit, and further enough away from the actual intensely smelling portions of the Paris sewer, it was still damp, disgusting, and I walked through the same section on accident like twice. For Thénardier to be lurking down there? I’m not sure how he found Valjean. I liked how Hugo emphasized that Valjean got kind of lucky in picking a direction to head in. In fact, that whole section I appreciated for how richly descriptive it was. That kind of section is something I like to write, absolutely over the top with emotionally evocative imagery, even if that emotion it is evoking is disgust. Victor Hugo’s particular interest in sewers was interesting, and I do wonder if he went down there for any extended period of time. His dual interest and utter disgust with it is a fascinating juxtaposition, though I cannot say I was as receptive to the dueling ideas when I was down there. Perhaps it was because I ended up paying for my own ticket, but I was mostly bewildered that anyone would make a sewer into a museum? Stepping back, I can see the inspiring aspect to how important sewers were, considering they were still using chamber pots in parts of the world, as we saw rather helpfully in the London house we visited, and how both the inevitable traits of a sewer, and the lack of care in their implementation can be disgusting.

Speaking of damp, kind of gross underground places, we also visited the catacombs. I loved it, personally, as morbid and weird as that may be. Sobering, to be in the presence of so many dead. Not in the way that cemeteries are sobering, but a deeper, more profound sense of death, at least for me. I adore sentiments of revolution, but knowing that many of the bones were victims of the terror, I understood the fear of that kind of thing. Still, I think reactionary actions and responses are also deeply disturbing, but that’s a topic for another day. Lets get back to the dead bodies. 


What a weird thing to do. Stack a bunch of bones up. Reading about how visitors, including royalty, would stroll through the catacombs was hilarious, and another reminder that people in the past were just that. People. Tourists into the same weird crap we are. I liked the idea that both some Austrian prince and I, separated by centuries, once happily trotted down a hall of skulls that stared blankly at us.

Folly of Versailles

Versailles was equal part beautiful, inspiring, and utterly frustrating to me. The former two, I think, are the intended effect for guests, and to its credit, it succeeds tenfold. Immediately striking is the main entrance, beautiful architecture with roofs gilded with gold. Equally striking is the horde you surge through, of star struck guests ogling with pictures and poses. I cannot pretend I was not one of them, I absolutely was, but a growing sense of discomfort initially began as I had the subtle thought: In its heyday few of us would have been permitted inside beyond being servants.

The inside felt just as grand as the outside, and in many cases, succeeded it. The apartments were a fun reminder how small people used to be, with beds that were about as long as a twin. In this section, I was struck by how much less indulgent I thought it was going to be. That’s not to say they weren’t indulgent, only less so than expected. There was little ominous or immediately offensive to my sense of justice.

The room I stepped into next, however, was more than a little uncomfortable. Dark walls painted with images of weaponry, the dimly lit connection to the bathhouses did in fact feel ominous. None of it was intentional, but the broken bodies of animal statues felt foreboding and to me, hearkened to the bloodshed of that era.

The Napoleon rooms, rooms on the other hand, were delightful. This was my next foray, after getting turned around and buying a macaroon (Marie Antoinette flavored???) Napoleon is a fascinating figure to me, especially the path of his ascent from an officer to housing himself in Versailles. The incredible journey he took to get there, to crown himself as emperor, it’s just not something that had ever been done. I really like the way those rooms were done, keeping that in mind. Each year was given its own room, giving further weight to the sheer amount of things he accomplished. Of course, he was still a tyrant and a warmonger, and the gorgeous paintings reflected that, with young men sent to fight and die for him. But there is an undeniable pull and glory for that sort of thing, and I certainly felt that in that room.

I could understand why young men like Marius could be swept away by the sheer grandiose of the man, even after he died. Napoleon wasn't just a great general I realized. He was a master propagandist.

Versailles is good for that. Understanding how there is an attraction to this sort of thing. Louis XIV had a similar pull, his logo looks sleek, even modern. The luxury and glory of kings and emperors within a vacuum can feel inspiring, beautiful. Again, you understand why men can become royalists, whether it's poor farmers who are kept in the dark, or wealthier men like Marius' grandfather. There's security in a sun king, security that the mess of a mob can't provide. The paintings can feel larger than life, the architecture can take you to other worlds, and the logo of King Louise XIV can look stylish on a pair of 16 euro socks– but it’s all toxic and destructive. It’s spending money on gold roofs while peasants starve, it’s crowning yourself emperor based on the merits of being the best at killing large groups of people before they kill you. It’s plunging nations into debt and war and dragging the people along with you.

These thoughts bustled to the front of my mind as I shuffled through the crowded, sweaty corridors on the way to the hall of mirrors. People pushed, shoved, and even stalled to take pictures, all to catch a glimpse of the height of decadence and luxury, that was withheld from a starving nation. The rooms up there were extravagant, almost too much so. It looked wildly uncomfortable to live in, not in the physical sense, but just the sheer glamour was nauseating (or maybe that was just the smell of the crowd, but I digress).

Finally, though, I found myself in the hall of mirrors. It was beautiful. Bigger than I thought it would be, just in the sense, I have no idea how they were able to cram so much inside this palace. Again, I liked the beauty of it, but something stunk. And this time I was pretty confident it wasn’t BO.

Before entering the garden, I entered the gift shop. They put the two next to each other, because of course, so it’s not like I wasn’t going to go in. I mentioned socks earlier, but there was so much more than that. There were cheap plastic figures of Louise XVI, Napoleon cosplaying cat pillows, replica pistols, beanies, tote bags, shirts, even an 80 euro plastic key. It was all so ridiculous to me. Here was a palace, a monarchy, so devoted to itself and its luxury it prompted a messy, angry revolution, and here we are selling its merch? I don’t expect lessons in history to ever go heeded, but man, Versailles truly underscored that. It’s not the first place in France I’ve seen do that either, I’ve seen Marie Antoinette mangas for instance, but Louise XVI action figures were such a blatantly bewildering sight I'm not sure if I’ve yet recovered.

After that dizzying experience, I got to enjoy the majesty of the garden. Well, first I grabbed a bite to eat (the worst meal I had in Paris), but then I enjoyed the majesty of the garden. Not much to say other than it was really nice. Wandering through the hedges was like entering a forest, the long middle walkway gave a nice view to the lake, and I enjoyed the little areas where various pillars and fountains were constructed.

And then I left, feeling a little less angry, with food in my stomach and a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice in my hand.

Paris vs London

Arriving in Paris, I cannot say I initially found it too different from London. The weather, ironically, has been worse, but otherwise that same sense of conflicting old and new architecture persisted, as did the wonders of public transit. But after a brief period of accumulation, even the streets feel different. For one, they feel wider here. While London had tighter streets, Paris has confusing roads that go different directions on the same side. It’s all very fascinating stuff.

Of course, the actually interesting differences are the people. The cultures are strangely similar and completely at odds. For instance, with broad strokes, one could consider both the French and English persistent in the upkeep of their appearance. Both put on an air of what is to be English or French, and hold their heads higher above those who don’t. But the English want to appear posh, while the French want to appear, for lack of a better word, cool. Berets vs caps. It makes sense in context with how their histories unfolded, too. Of course the more hip French are going to buck authority and be attracted to new ideas, and of course the posh well put together Englishmen are going to take their time, and stick with their old principles. Purely subjective– but I give it to the French on that one.

Speaking on culture, I can’t say I find the French very rude? Everyone has been very nice to me, except for when they don’t realize I don’t speak French and just think I’m being rude.

Furthermore, another rather exciting difference I discovered between London and Paris, is the food. I liked food in London, I really did. But French food is a different beast. With a bakery on every corner, I’ve eaten more pastries in a few days than in my entire life. And it’s all sooo good. I have no idea how much butter they put in those things, and I’m not sure that I want to know. But hey, no preservatives, right?

It’s not purely French food either, there’s so much here. Especially near my apartment, there’s a long road north of us littered with restaurants and cafes. I was happy to find a number of Greek restaurants, including a Greek crêpe place. I visited a truly fantastic French-Japanese fusion restaurant, and it was life changing. I still think London wins on the burger front, but man. Nothing else really compares.

In short, London was great. Paris is better.

Lost in London

My first time in the UK, and I have to say- London certainly left its impression. It’s not the first time I’ve seen anachronistic architecture like this- old buildings made with long dead architectural practices sharing streets and skylines with contemporary glass structures- but it is the most drastic example of this kind of juxtaposition I’ve ever come across, and for lack of a better word, it’s really freaking cool. I didn’t think my first time viewing a castle would involve skyscrapers in the background?

It also makes the connection to our reading stronger, as the tight streets and oppressive castles and courthouses of Dickens’ day not only still exist, but thrive under the transformation of the modern day. It’s not a one to one translation, and how could it be (thank god, we don’t need people emptying their chamber pots at night), but there’s enough of the old world left that if you squint just right and catch the old buildings at the right light, you can imagine the London fog roll in over people in hats and coats amid carriages. Just gotta try to not think about what the smell would’ve been like.

This makes simply wandering around London special, something I became somewhat of an expert on after breaking my glasses (did I sit on them? yes). Leaving the group early, I began my odyssey to an optician (there are a LOT of them here). The journey there was nothing special, about twenty or so minutes of walking with obfuscated vision that rendered even the grandest sights into a blurry mess in front of me, but after a couple journeys back and forth I was equipped with the ability to once again take in the sights. This, of course, wasted the day, but my journey back to join the class allowed me to soak in the same sights I was supposed to see earlier. It also gave me a clearer understanding of where things were located. I found a rather large brick castle like structure that boldly stated “Dickens lived here for a time,” stumbled across the same Cheshire Cheese the class had visited, and found a courthouse with rather intimidating lion statues and a guard that looked annoyed at my presence. I took in Fleet Street as a lost pup, and I cannot say that that experience was entirely unwelcome.

It also makes the connection to our reading stronger, as the tight streets and oppressive castles and courthouses of Dickens’ day not only still exist, but thrive under the transformation of the modern day. It’s not a one to one translation, and how could it be (thank god, we don’t need people emptying their chamber pots at night), but there’s enough of the old world left that if you squint just right and catch the old buildings at the right light, you can imagine the London fog roll in over people in hats and coats amid carriages. Just gotta try to not think about what the smell would’ve been like.

This makes simply wandering around London special, something I became somewhat of an expert on after breaking my glasses (did I sit on them? yes). Leaving the group early, I began my odyssey to an optician (there are a LOT of them here). The journey there was nothing special, about twenty or so minutes of walking with obfuscated vision that rendered even the grandest sights into a blurry mess in front of me, but after a couple journeys back and forth I was equipped with the ability to once again take in the sights. This, of course, wasted the day, but my journey back to join the class allowed me to soak in the same sights I was supposed to see earlier. It also gave me a clearer understanding of where things were located. I found a rather large brick castle like structure that boldly stated “Dickens lived here for a time,” stumbled across the same Cheshire Cheese the class had visited, and found a courthouse with rather intimidating lion statues and a guard that looked annoyed at my presence. I took in Fleet Street as a lost pup, and I cannot say that that experience was entirely unwelcome.


When I later read Dickens’ and saw mention of that very same street, I felt almost as though I had become privy to some insider knowledge, or some kind of inside joke I could share with Dickens. Of course, it’s just a street, but since so very little fiction occurs in Long Beach, California, it was nice to get a reference. Bookpacking, in essence, is getting those little references. These small pieces of context that may seem insignificant when you’re an ocean and the width of a country away, but feel far more impactful when you actually have the opportunity to enjoy them. Tellsons’, the hanging sign inside Dickens’ house are just little things, but they’re also giving you insight into Dickens’ as a real person. The museum in Dickens’ house does an exemplary job of this, not just showing you his stuff, as one might expect, but explaining how he lived, and how the house functioned. I think it’s easy to forget that the people of the past were, well, real people, not too unlike ourselves, that lived regular lives. As an aspiring writer, it is rather grounding to step through the same areas that Dickens’ did, and take in the fact that at some point he was just some hopeful would-be fiction writer like me. Only I can’t look out the window and see a castle when I’m writing. Furthermore, visiting places like that Victorian house, make it far easier to visualize how the people in fiction such as Dickens’ or Hugo’s lived. I hadn’t quite internalized how dark life purely by candlelight was– there was a sense of eeriness in that house so intense I thought the experience would turn out to be partly haunted. But of course, the people living at the time wouldn’t know any different, so these novels don’t go in too depth about how dark everything is. It’s just a piece of context that enhances the experience of reading, alienating you slightly from this world, and yet making your connection to it stronger as you get a fuller sense of how these characters lived as people.

A little more firmly modern is the culinary scene, something I took immediate advantage of. It’s impossible to relate it to the literature, other than to underscore just how much it has changed. But it’s too damn good not to talk about. Firstly, I was surprised by how many coffee shops there were, I had expected them to drink less coffee and more tea, but as a typical college level caffeine addict, I found it rather welcoming. But more than that, no longer is London home to merely boiled cabbage and indiscriminate meats, instead you have a global culinary experience. The global sense of London cannot be understated. America, for all its flaws, is classically known as the melting pot of cultures, an iconic immigrant nation. But cultural identities in America tend to melt away and assimilate into the greater culture. That’s not to say there aren’t cultural identities in the US, only that London, in comparison, feels truly global. This creates this global food identity, that provides an excellent replacement to beans on toast (sorry Britain). The Borough Market, where we visited, was one of my favorite places, because of the sheer amount of food you could consume, from quite a few different cultural backgrounds. Funnily enough, though, my favorite food in London was thoroughly American. A cheeseburger. My god, I wish we had a Bleecker’s back home.

Paris, Underground

I have gone underground countless times in Paris, which is a sentence that surprises me to be writing. Most of the time, it was for my daily commuting on the Métro, but we also ventured through the sewers and the catacombs, both of which were many, many stairs underground. (Ironically enough, I am writing this blog from the top of the Tour Eiffel, possibly the highest point in the city that one can be.) From top to bottom, Paris has life bubbling at every point, especially under the surface. Let’s dive in, shall we? (...Get it?)

Some of the stations have this lovely architecture at the entrance!

The Paris Métro has been my primary way of traveling around the city. Every morning, I take a 40–45 minute commute to our study center. I begin my day underground, surrounded mostly by local Parisians on their morning commutes as well. The Métro is pleasantly quiet, and it has grown to be a lovely part of my day.

Underground, we travel through tunnels, the train gliding along tracks lit with dim lights. Around me, people are reading novels, listening to music, chatting softly with each other. The announcements on the train warn patrons of pickpockets and to keep their bags close to them. The speakers emit a beeping sound to warn that the doors are closing, and I laugh to myself as the noise is in perfect harmony with the Olivia Rodrigo song playing in my ears.

We are all on our way somewhere. Some have luggage, some have briefcases, some have backpacks. Some are with partners, with children, friends, pets. Others, like me, are on their own. But we are all traveling as one.

Long walkway in the sewers

Next to us, above, below, and around us are the sewers. We visited the Musée des Égouts de Paris, the Paris Sewer Museum, and, yes, we walked through the sewers. Not through the sewage water itself–I don’t know if any of us have the constitution for that–but through the tunnels that are above and around them, all connecting to each other. And, if you haven’t guessed it already, it smelled.

In Les Misérables, Jean Valjean saves Marius’ life by taking him through the same sewers we walked. They traverse underground, out of sight of the soldiers, Valjean carrying an unconscious Marius on his back.

We found a mural of Valjean carrying Marius through the sewers! Was so much fun to stumble across.

Hugo describes how Valjean sees daylight and, after a confrontation with Thénardier, escapes the sewers. He explains that this location is somewhere between the Pont d’lena and the Pont des Invalides, along the Seine across from the Gros-Calliou. Miraculously, the Musée des Égouts de Paris is located in almost this exact location. It may have been on the other side of the Seine; we were not 100% sure, but we were close enough that it felt too accurate to be a coincidence. I have to imagine that, when putting together the museum, the choice of location wasn’t lost on them. I like to imagine some diehard Les Mis fan was a part of that decision-making process.

The sewers were dark, smelly, and confusing. It felt like a maze–I never knew what awaited me at every turn (despite the clearly labeled signs for museum visitors). At some parts, you could look down through a metal grate and see the sewage water flowing below. Those parts, allegedly, were the worst smelling. Almost everyone came back from that section plugging their noses; I saw several people nearly gagging. (I had never been more grateful to have a poor sense of smell–I didn’t think it was that bad!)

Through the stench, darkness, and confusing turns, I couldn’t even begin to imagine what Jean Valjean must have been going through down there. I was disoriented, and, for me, it was relatively well-lit, and they gave us maps! Not to mention, Valjean was carrying Marius on his back, facing exhaustion, and trudging through the water at times. Emerging from the sewers and seeing the outdoors must have felt like its own rebirth, a final saving grace.

The sewers certainly weren’t my favorite, but they did not leave me as unsettled as the catacombs did. The Paris Catacombs lie approximately 20 meters, or 65 feet, below ground level. By the time we reached the bottom of the staircase, I was incredibly grateful that I was not claustrophobic. We walked through dimly lit tunnels for about fifteen minutes before hitting the entrance to the catacombs which featured a warning overhead that spooked us, to say the least.

Suddenly, the enormity of where we were hit me. I read somewhere online that there are more people’s bones in the catacombs than there are living people in Paris currently. I don’t know how true that is, but the number of remains that have been moved and stored there is astronomical. It took us thirty minutes to walk through the publicly accessible areas of the catacombs, around corners and through tunnels; it felt reminiscent of the sewers.

Some of the bones were arranged in designs. Many had plaques that said which cemetery or what event the remains in that section were from. This was, for me, possibly the most interesting way to get a sense of the history of the city. Centuries of Paris history, told through millions of people’s bones stacked together 65 feet underground.

When I emerged from the catacombs, I had never been more glad to see daylight–and not just because of the 112 steps I had just walked up. Seeing the outdoors after being underground, whether it’s from the Métro, or the sewers or catacombs, always felt like taking a breath of fresh air, in more ways than one. So much life and death and history exists below the ground in Paris, and what a way to exist within this world.

Final Thoughts, Highlights, and Reflections

They say when you’re trying to learn a new language, the best (and fastest) way to become completely fluent is through immersion. Whether that’s moving to a different country, attending a school taught in another language, or surrounding yourself with native speakers, you need to immerse yourself, leaving your own language behind, to truly learn. I would argue, after this experience, that the same is true for literature. Head to the site where your story takes place, head to your classroom each morning, surround yourself with English majors and an endlessly knowledgeable professor, and leave behind your preconceptions and completely unrelated field of study.

Over the past month, I have been running around London and Paris, doing just that. Immersing myself. Now, as I wait for the flight I am absurdly early for at CDG, I finally have a chance to mentally unpack what this experience has taught me. For starters, I feel like I know London and Paris like the back of my hand. I am now a seasoned metro/underground user (if I do say so myself), and I have learned to embrace the art of the Flaneûr. I’m still not the biggest fan of museums, but my curiosity about each little thing I pass on the street has grown immensely. All it takes is a quick google search when you see an interesting building and all of a sudden you can dive into 200 years of history – amazing!

The Grand Canal of Versailles

If you told me a year ago that I would take a Bookpacking class, I’d tell you you were crazy. This is not to say that I didn’t like the idea of traveling to a new place and getting to enjoy a book through this intense lens, it’s more that I never thought I’d get the opportunity to do something like this. In my major, reading a book academically is a rarity, and during the year, I have to be very selective with the general ed classes I choose to take to allow for some leeway with my difficult course load. Without the Julymester option I probably would have fulfilled this requirement with something far more simple, and what a loss that would have been. Coming into this program, I was incredibly nervous about how I would perform in a class of this nature, and I was equally terrified that I might not make friends or enjoy my time as much as I had hoped. Honestly, I could not have been more wrong. I am leaving this program with a lot more confidence in literature, a deep understanding of A Tale of Two Cities and Les Misérables and the cities where they call home, and friendships that will last a lifetime. I am incredibly lucky to have had the opportunity to do this scary thing and find that it wasn’t so scary after all.

One of my favorite explorations was our trip to the Palace of Versailles, where I got to immerse myself in what it may have been like to be a royal in the 18th century. My friends and I walked the extensive gardens, both in disbelief at the scale of the whole place and excited to see what was around the next bend. We even rented a paddle boat and floated around the Grand Canal of Versailles. This was one of many moments where I found myself doing things I couldn’t have thought to plan in advance. Spontaneity in our free time was something I have thoroughly enjoyed.

Sophia in the Sewer Museum Gift Shop

Another exploration that I (in part) enjoyed was the Museum of the Sewers. I would have stayed down there in the sewer for much longer if it didn’t smell quite so unbearable. It was amazing to see the progression of the sewers over several decades, and imagining Jean Valjean carrying Marius through those gross passages gave me an all-new respect for him and his good deed. Hugo mentions that Valjean could hardly keep his head above the water in the sewers… are you kidding me? I would have passed out by then from the smell alone, let alone carrying someone through such disgusting conditions. Interestingly, though, the sewers museum is right by where the pair emerged (finally) back to fresh air. Oh, the joys of bookpacking! To know that you are standing exactly where Hugo’s filthy characters once were is truly a unique feeling.

Back in London, I enjoyed so many of our explorations. One day in particular stands out, the day when we got to go to Borough Market and visit Tellson’s bank (in its new location). At borough market, I got a chance to get a sense of contemporary culture in London. It was absolutely packed with locals, tourists, extensive food markets, and delicious cuisines. I got a Japanese rice bowl and the tiktok-famous chocolate strawberries, and both of them were so delicious. After that, we walked along the Thames to a couple of other sites, and we ended our exploration at Tellson’s bank, which has moved from its original position (after a quick detour to the countryside,` interestingly enough). It was a perfect day to blend the contemporary London I love so much to the London that Dickens’ characters experienced. 

The past month has been exhausting, enriching, challenging, and full of new experiences and a whole lot of laughter. I am so thankful to have had the opportunity to meet a whole group of new friends and get to explore London and Paris through such a close and unique lens, and I can’t wait to someday return and revisit the memories I’ve made. Thanks so much for following along! Now…onto my 14 hour flight and a brand new semester!

Borough Market Strawberries — yum!

The Obligatory but Dreaded Eiffel Tower Blog Post

The central romance of Les Miserables starts in the Luxembourg Gardens, where Marius, over the course of years, strolls past Cosette sitting with Jean Valjean. He mentions them sitting “at the most deserted end of the path, towards Rue de l’Ouest.” By looking at old maps of Paris and comparing them to maps of today, this road seems to line up with what is today called Rue d’Assas. Today, the section of gardens Cosette and Jean Valjean sat at is no longer a part of the gardens proper, but is instead a series of educational buildings dedicated to teaching pharmacy, art, archeology, and other subjects. This was also where the Medici fountain used to sit, and was moved after this area of the garden was removed. This change wasn’t yet made in 1862, when Hugo published the novel, but was made just three years later under reforms by Napoleon III. For people wanting to backpack this exact spot when the novel first came out, they would only have had the chance to for the first three years after its release.

By visiting the gardens, I gained a sense for how easily visiting these gardens could become a daily routine. The area is beautiful, with flower beds, statues spaced out, and a pond that has miniature sailboats floating about. At the same time, there’s nothing overly formal about the gardens, and outside the main section, has lots of more intimate pathways that make it seem like a place for daily walks rather than a place purely for tourists. I walked through the gardens, pointing out benches where I could imagine Jean Valjean and Cosette sitting. Probably not by the miniature statue of liberty I saw (placed there 20 years after Victor Hugo died), but maybe by the other trees and statues, where I imagine modern-day romances could bloom as easily as they did 200 years ago.

After visiting the Luxembourg Gardens, I waited until night time to visit the Eiffel Tower – today a quintessential symbol for Paris, but not yet built during Victor Hugo’s time, as construction began two years after his death. And for a symbol of Paris, it didn’t feel particularly Parisian, with its wiry, metallic design, compared to the more stone, marble, and wood I associate with buildings like the Opera Garnier, the Louvre, or the Notre Dame. Regardless, I found it impressive. It helped that the Champ-de-Mars right next to the Eiffel Tower is another vibrant, vivacious park full of people and energy. I expected to be incredibly underwhelmed, but instead was surprisingly awed at the structure. This specific feeling has been my reaction to Paris as a whole. I expected “Paris Syndrome,” that after hearing how Paris was the center of art, fashion, philosophy all my life, I’d inevitably be disappointed by it when I visited. But my reaction has been entirely the opposite.

As I’m sitting in my hotel room the night before my flight, I’m reflecting on the things about Paris that made me enjoy the city so much. Probably most dominant was the de emphasis on working. Rather than seeing things like food as just sustenance needed to live and keep working, food is for enjoyment. At restaurants, there’s no rush, and sitting in the environment and enjoying the atmosphere, the conversation, ordering dessert and coffee and sitting for hours is the intended goal for the meal. The same leisure mindset applies to making things like walking through the Luxembourg Gardens a daily routine. Here, I feel like the parks are more consistently full of people walking, picnicking, or reading than in Los Angeles, and I think part of that comes from seeing leisure as the primary focus of life, rather than just a pastime.

The architecture also cannot be overlooked. It feels like any time I’m walking to a destination, I pass through a handful of buildings that are just stunningly beautiful. Despite the size of Paris, it’s packed with places loaded with a past. When I was walking around the area near my apartment looking for dinner, I ended up recreating the walk where Jean Valjean and Cosette evaded Javert. When I was looking for shampoo after running out, I passed by a famous jazz club.

And I think a consequence of that is a more general appreciation of literature, culture and history. So many buildings have plaques commemorating figures in fields from science to music. The restaurant where we had our final dinner as a group had a Dostoevsky quote on the front. The cafe where a group of literary figures such as Camus and Hemingway frequented is a major attraction. Right down the street from our classroom was a cafe where Victor Hugo was a patron. Then there’s the museum.The Louvre alone would be enough, but Paris also has other art museums like the Musee l’Orangerie and Musee d’Orsay, in addition to all the niche museums like the Museum of Magic and the Paris Museum of Sewers, located right by where Jean Valjean emerges from the Sewers in the novel. For fashion, the Dior Museum might be the best museum I’ve ever visited, and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum is nearby if Dior isn’t enough. Art, fashion, history, literature, and general culture feels like a living force in this city, even moreso than I had expected. There is a Paris that exists in the mind, and there is a Paris that exists in reality. And for me, the two are not as distinct as I might have thought.

I Can Still Recall Our Last Summer

I will try to connect two things that don’t make much sense together: ABBA and Les Miserables.



“I Can Still Recall Our Last Summer” is one of my favorite of ABBA’s (many) bangers. “The summer air was soft and warm, the feeling bright, the Paris night.” Like a summer night, sound is nostalgic sticky sweet, and a little clubby and dreamy. In the song, the speaker reminisces on “our last summer”, the last one she spent long ago with “Harry” either before they parted ways or married, it’s left ambiguous, but he remaines “and now you’re working in a bank, a family man, a football fan… how dull it seems, yet you’re the hero of my dreams.” Either way, it’s what seems like the last summer of youth.



In one of my more melodramatic tendencies, I’ve been listening to this song on repeat, taking breaks from Bookpacking to “songpacking” as I take “walks along the Seine” or enjoy “Paris restaurants, morning croissants, in the tourist jam round the Notre Dame.” Yes, it’s a profoundly touristy song.



It’s also a song about nostalgia for being young, and about Paris. Specifically, what people project onto Paris. It’s about idealism and associating this city with youth and optimism. One of the reasons why I like this song, aside from its silly Eurovision flair and association with Mamma Mia, is that I feel like in some ways this trip is the end of my last summer.



At least of my youth. I’ll still be young next summer, and for quite a few summers after that. But I’m a senior in college with no plans for continuing my education. This is my last summer before I’m a “real adult.” My last summer break in between school terms. This is the last time I’ll be on a school trip. This is the last summer I’ll be able to call myself a student. So, this trip in Europe, aside from Bookpacking, to me feels like a farewell to being a student and organizing my life as in between jobs and big responsibilities.



The young foreigner “finding themselves” in Paris is an excruciatingly cliched plot premise. But I think even for the French, Paris, like any big city, is a place to seek out for adventure. When discussing Parisian youth and idealism, it’s impossible not to bring up the ABC’s. The ABC’s are a student group in Les Miserables, a ragtag bunch of university kids hanging around the Cafe Musain in the Latin Quarter, drinking to the Revolution.



For them, it really is their last summer, as every one of them are (spoiler alert) massacred at the barricades in the July 1832 revolution. I wondered, as I listened to the song, what they would have thought of it. And who in the group would like ABBA and who wouldn’t. Perhaps not the song itself, but the idea of Paris representing youth.



Near La Sorbonne in the Latin Quarter, around where the ABC’s would have hung out.

In my gamin piece, I mentioned that Victor Hugo chooses to personify the city of Paris as a young person. I said it’s young because everything seems in front of Paris, it feels endless, boundless, and like things are just getting started. But in the case of the ABC’s, and this silly song, I’d also like to add that something about Paris feels dreamy, idealistic.


Radical movements are fueled by idealism, and often led by young people. In class, we studied student protests in 1968 that caused the famed barricades to go right back up. We also learned about Paris being a “theatre” for displays of protest and movements across history.


I think what makes Paris the center for radical and idealism is the same thing that makes it a center for dreamy foreigners to skip around and have fun. It’s that sense that anything is possible, that there are plenty of corners to hide in, and plenty of open cafes to sit in community with others and discuss the state of the world.

Even old people here act “young,” dancing in the street, walking their dogs late at night, dressing in the latest fashion. Maybe the sense of youth is just some sense of Parisian spirit and savoring of life. I felt a lot of connection with the ABC’s. I’m not one to throw myself at the barricades. But both the ABC’s and our class are, essentially, young people trying to find our way in the same city.


As our class wandered around the place where the Cafe Musain might have been, I wondered what they all thought Paris represented, and whether, like many young people, it was a place to find purpose.


A Run Through Luxembourg Gardens, Where Brothers Turn Into Fathers

“When Brothers Turn into Being Fathers” is how Victor Hugo chooses to title his chapter on the Thénardiers’ abandoned kids. I was so struck by this portrait of these children as well as the wealthier little boy with his father in this chapter that I wanted to bookpack it. I set off one windy, but sunny, Sunday, to jog through the gardens, following where these characters would have been.

These children wander through Luxembourg Gardens, alone, as the rest of Paris is either locked up in their homes or fighting in the barricade. Where are the police that usually patrol these gardens? At the barricades. Where are the authorities helping them find a home and food? Preoccupied. But these young children are not afraid. The older one puts out his hand. The younger one grabs it. The older one carries a small stick to ward off potential harm. The younger one is hungry. The older one looks for food. The older one is not his father, but he can no longer just be his brother. This is one of the many beautiful portraits of unexpected mentorship Victor Hugo paints. As they no longer have the luxury to think about the failures of their situation, they understand how to live by learning as they go, teaching others how to survive, and looking, always, towards the future. In these portraits of a friend or sibling taking on the responsibility of a parent, Victor Hugo shows us the value of mentorship, informed by lived experience, as a guide for how to live life and face tomorrow, even when tomorrow is not promised.

Getting off the metro stop, I was struck by the silence in this neighborhood. It was a Sunday, a day of rest for many Parisians, but I legitimately didn’t see a soul. Besides one older woman with her baguette. What a contrast from the craziness of the barricades surrounding the Luxembourg Gardens in this section of Les Misérables. Walking into the Luxembourg Gardens, I found out where everyone in Montparnasse was. They were having a baguette, jogging, riding ponies, and basking in the rare sun. What a contrast from the outside streets. And ironic, considering it was a flipped situation in Les Misérables, where Luxembourg Gardens served as a temporary refuge from the outside chaos and noise of the barricades.

In this chapter, Hugo makes a conscious decision to stop the rising action in the barricades to show, visually, how the personal is inherently political. It’s a striking moment that purposefully interrupts the flow of action. He writes “At the same moment, in the Luxembourg Gardens – for the eyes of the drama must be everywhere – there were two children holding hands.” (1092) In the chaos of this moment, these children have gone forgotten, but Victor Hugo makes the choice to remember them.

How did these children manage to get into the gardens among this chaos? Victor Hugo asks this question, but in his typical narration style, he doesn’t quite know the answer. He thinks that “Perhaps they had escaped from some guard-room…Perhaps somewhere in the vicinity, at the Enfer Toll Gate or on Esplanade de l’Observatoire.” (1092) The first time I went to this area, I was focused on Luxembourg Gardens, so I didn’t see the Enfer Toll Gate. I returned to this same area a couple of days later and noticed an interesting lion sculpture at an intersection in the Montparnasse neighborhood on the way to the Montparnasse Cemetery from the Catacombs. After a bit of research and digging online, I found out the Enfer Toll Gates, or the Gates of Hell as they were known, no longer exist as they were and are in fact in the approximate area of this lion statue that I happened to stumble upon. Today, it is called the Place Denfert-Rochereau, which seems to be in the place of the Enfer Gates. It seems very appropriate that I would stumble upon this landmark rather than seek it out, considering that these two young Thénardiers would have stumbled upon these gates, rather than knowing exactly where they were going.

My estimation of where the Enfer Toll Gates would be today.

And now into the Luxembourg Gardens. Hugo goes on for a few pages describing the beauty of the Luxembourg Gardens, particularly that “There is nothing so wonderful as foliage washed by the rain and dried by the sun – it is a warm freshness.” (1094) I can relate to this feeling, Victor Hugo! After the rain that plagued the first two weeks in Paris and often came right when we ventured outside into the streets there was truly no better place to be than in the Luxembourg Gardens, taking in the most beautiful park I’d ever seen, as the sun came out for the first time in days. In this rapturous prose, he gets lost in his thoughts: everything from Goethe to the flaws in thought that devalues human connection. Running through these gardens it isn’t hard to see how one can get lost in thought. I start to think about how lovely it would be to have the park to myself. Until I make eye contact with other runners, smile with them, and bask in this small moment of connection. I think that Victor Hugo would be proud of me for reaching out to strangers, even in this small way. I take in the statues “…clothed all in tatters of sunshine” (1092) and the “abundance of light” (1095). As I catch my breath at the end of this run, I take a seat by the lake, where much of the action of this chapter happens.

I watch the little boys with their sailboats, and they remind me of the Thénardier kids and the boy with his father, who came from a house which had owned a key to Luxembourg Gardens even when it was closed. A lot of these boys are with their parents. They don’t feed swans like the boy with his father. Perhaps these little boats have replaced the swans. The little boy with his little boat, the Greek flag waving on it, leans far forward to reach the boat, almost falling in, laying on his tummy to reach it with his guide stick. This feels familiar. Maybe because in this chapter: “The older lad quickly lay flat on his stomach on the curved edge of the pond…almost falling in, with his right hand he reached his stick out towards the brioche.” (1099). The brioche having been thrown by the wealthier father and son towards the swan. The little boy grabs onto his boat. The older lad “grabbed the brioche...” (1099) Both stand up. Their actions are almost identical, the context is completely different.

 At this, I walk out of the gardens. I have found what I was looking for.

Source:

Tribillon , Justinien. “New Life in the Kingdom of Death: The Plan to Redevelop Subterranean Paris.” The Guardian, 6 Feb. 2017, www.theguardian.com/cities/2017/feb/06/beyond-kingdom-death-journey-subterranean-paris.

A Summer Bookpacking Farewell

In this final chapter of my bookpacking adventure, I'm enveloped by a profound sense of nostalgia. As I meander through the historic streets of Paris, I am not just a tourist but a time-traveler, following in the echoes of Victor Hugo’s intricate characters from Les Misérables. Every alleyway, every facade, every whisper of the wind, feels familiar, as though the pages of this beloved novel have come to life around me. This fusion of literature and reality, this immersive experience I've intimately come to understand as "bookpacking", has profoundly altered my perception of the world. It’s not just about reading a novel; it's about living within its pages, feeling its emotions, and understanding its surroundings. As I pen down this narrative, the realization that this is my concluding blog entry makes each word, each memory, even more cherished. The culmination of this journey brings with it a sense of closure, but also an overwhelming gratitude for the stories lived and lessons learned. Starting my day at the intersection of Rue Plumet and Rue de Babylone, the atmosphere around me seemed to pulse with remnants of Marius’ impassioned steps. The streets, still marked by the weight of history, brought forth vivid images of Marius in the throes of revolution, his heart heavy with love and duty. With every stride I took on those age-old cobblestones, I could almost hear the distant rumblings of revolutionaries, the fervent whispers of plans, and the hopeful songs of freedom. These sounds seemed to blend seamlessly with memories of my earlier bookpacking adventures, creating a rich tapestry of narrative and history. The tangible connection to Marius' world made me feel less like a mere observer and more of a participant, momentarily living within the pages of Hugo’s masterpiece. Making my way towards Les Invalides, the looming majesty of L’Église du Dôme and the solemnity of Napoleon’s Tomb weren't merely historical landmarks; they pulsated with the emotions, conflicts, and aspirations that provided the very foundation for Les Misérables. Each ornate detail, each shadowy corner seemed to echo with the voices of Hugo's characters, a testament to the time when France's political turmoil and social upheaval intersected with personal tales of love and loss. Stepping into the Musee de l’Armee was akin to diving into a time capsule. The meticulously preserved Napoleonic galleries, with their depictions of pivotal moments, and the luminous uniforms of the Grande Armée stood as silent witnesses to the era that inspired Hugo's narrative. As I explored, it was almost as if the pages of the novel had come alive around me, intertwining real history with Hugo's literary brilliance. As I approached Victor Hugo’s residence, I swelled with a myriad of emotions. The house was more than bricks and mortar; it was the crucible where Hugo's imagination forged the intricate universe of Les Misérables. I could almost sense his presence, feeling the fervor of his creativity seeping through the walls. Every winding alley of Paris, from the historic Rue des Archives to the treasures hidden within the Musée Carnavalet, seemed to have imbibed a part of Hugo's essence, making the city a living testament to his genius. The descent into the Musée des Égouts de Paris was a surreal experience. The cold, damp atmosphere, the labyrinthine tunnels, all invoked the palpable desperation Valjean must have felt as he trudged through the sewers, Cosette's future hanging in the balance. Hugo's words painted the bleakness and hope of this scene so vividly that being there made me relive those intense emotions. Then, as I emerged, squinting against the daylight, the Eiffel Tower stood tall, a juxtaposition of Paris's rich history and its modern promise. Much like the journey of the characters in Les Misérables, it embodied the struggles and triumphs, the tragedies and the hopes, that define the human spirit. Stepping back to muse upon my bookpacking odyssey through Paris and beyond, the depth and breadth of the metamorphosis I've experienced becomes astoundingly clear. This journey has transcended the confines of mere travel or the immersive allure of literature. Instead, it birthed a captivating confluence of both, a symphony where each note of written word seamlessly merged with real-world experiences. As I pen down this chapter, my concluding blog entry, my heart is replete with vivid memories, invaluable insights, and a profound reverence for the delicate interplay between the world of fiction and the palpable reality around us. Through the immersive lens of bookpacking, literary masterpieces weren't merely devoured by eyes; they were felt by the heart, witnessed by the soul, and ultimately, lived in the truest sense.

Wrapping up my bookpacking narrative, I’m filled with an overwhelming sense of gratitude and awe. Over the course of numerous blogs, I've traversed the bustling streets of London and the romantic boulevards of Paris, not merely as a tourist, but as an eager participant in a literary dance that spanned centuries.

London, with its gray skies and historic architecture, breathed life into the pages of Dickens. I walked its cobblestone streets, each stone echoing the footsteps of Oliver Twist and the resolute ambitions of Pip. These pathways, laden with tales of Victorian-era struggles and triumphs, were no longer just remnants of a time gone by, but very much alive with narratives waiting to be uncovered.

Paris, on the other hand, was a heady blend of romance and revolution. Through the eyes of Victor Hugo, the city's grandeur took on a different light. From the hallowed grounds of Les Invalides to the shadowy depths of the Musée des Égouts, every site reverberated with the voices of Valjean, Javert, Cosette, and the many souls of Les Misérables. As I explored, it felt as if Hugo himself was guiding me, introducing me to the very soul of Paris.

But bookpacking was more than just literary sightseeing; it was an immersion. With every site visited and every tale revisited, I deepened my understanding of the symbiotic relationship between literature and its geographical muse. The landmarks were not just made of bricks and stones; they were repositories of stories, memories, and legacies. They whispered secrets of bygone eras, of lovers' trysts, and of revolutions that shaped societies.

Taking a step back and contemplating my entire bookpacking experience, I'm filled with an overwhelming realization. The act of bookpacking transcended traditional learning, transporting me into a realm where fiction melded seamlessly with reality. My sojourn in London and Paris wasn't just an exploration of cities but a deep dive into the heart of literature itself.

As I pen down this concluding note, the weight of this being my final blog in this series is palpable. Yet, rather than an end, I see it as a doorway to countless more adventures that await. Literature, after all, is vast, and our world, rich with tales waiting to be lived. Thank you, dear cities, for being such gracious hosts, and thank you, dear readers, for accompanying me on this enchanting journey. The power of literature and the magic of cities, when intertwined, have given me stories I will cherish forever.

That Ridiculous, Beautiful Radical

When I imagine Enjolras, I picture a constant breeze blowing through his golden hair. I see his hair billowing through some corner of the ABC Cafe, right by the “GIRLS KEEP OUT” sign. As he moves to the center of the room, I imagine him angling his head—that ridiculous, beautiful radical—not for stupid, vain, or girly reasons, but because he must. His golden locks wave like a flag in the wind, a flag that will signal the way to revolution. Therefore, he must look beautiful with his head angled just so—for the people! For Grantaire! 

However, in my imaginings, the one thing I could not fathom was how Enjolras took himself and his golden hair so seriously. To me, he seemed smart enough to see how insular he was, and that the microcosm he dominated was simply that—a microcosm. I could not see why he was so intent on exclusivity. Wasn’t his revolution in the name of “the masses”? Why exclude them? 

Even though I could not pronounce Enjolras’s name, I went to the Rue Sufflot in search of him. I called out On-shawl-ruh, and a golden head popped out of the window of a tiny cafe. I looked through the window into a cramped room, and I had my first answer: the masses simply would not have fit in The ABC Cafe. This is why “the Friends of the ABC were few in number. It was a secret society in embryo, we would say almost a clique, if cliques culminated in heroes” (584). The physical space necessitated a type of exclusion. In terms of physical room, there could not have comfortably been an ever-growing group. Especially because they are talking—talking about revolution, ideas, and life—the space is being filled in terms of breath and noise. The more people that breathe, the more heat fills the room. The more noise from talking, the less you can hear. To function as a group where ideas can be exchanged for a long period of time, there could not be a group large in number. Not to mention, there needed to be space for Enjolras’s hair. 

However, this is not to justify the “GIRLS KEEP OUT” sign metaphorically posted up at the doorway. As The Friends of the ABC were a university group, I would draw a direct line from whom they exclude to whom the university excludes. Thus, I went to the Sorbonne! 

I could not get into the Sorbonne. Entering into a university and seeing who is there, observing if people are friendly or competitive, and sensing if their noses are in books because they are precocious or passionate, felt essential to understanding Enjolras. But the walls of the Sorbonne are high. 

Not one to appreciate a wall, I tried to google “how to enter into the university’s libraries as a non-student.” Oddly enough, my search autocorrected to “how to break into the Sorbonne,” which was truly, tragically out of my control and I simply had no choice but to pursue the route of a “break in.” Pursue I did! After an hour of clicking, I stumbled upon an intricate, secret map in the depths of the Sorbonne’s website. It showed me that if I take the back path, turn right, turn right four more times, and hop over the lava mote, I will reach a secret door with a sign that says “Nice try.” 

I tell this story not because of its truth, but because it captures the energy of exclusivity around the University. In my difficulty accessing even the library, I saw Enjolras’s exclusivity in a new light. It seemed to me that there is a deep pride in exclusivity around any university space, and for Enjolras I saw the pride in exclusivity was also pride in purity. Exclusivity meant he was encouraged to weed out those not in line or likeness. He sought out “one true purity,” but as I walked around a university I could not even access, I saw who this excluded. As “most of the friends of the ABC were students who had an amiable understanding with a number of workers,” (584) it became clear to me that their exclusivity meant that university students of the 19th century—people who had access to certain ways of talking about revolution, time to spare where they could not be working, and were men—were an elite class often not grounded in reality. The guardedness of both of these spaces, the Sorbonne and The Friends of the ABC Cafe, made me question who “thought purity” was invented by, and whom it serves. 

I understood that Enjolras was able to take himself beyond seriously because he saw the microcosm he was leading to be made up of the only people capable of being leaders, thinkers, and revolutionaries. He did not see it as a microcosm, but as a “clique made up of heroes.” I do not observe this as a way to dismiss their revolution—I am not anti-intellectualism, nor do I think their actions were purely selfish. I think the exchange of ideas is essential to social progress; my issue is the idea that these conversations can only be had in academic spaces. What would their revolution have been if it had begun not in The ABC Cafe, but in a factory? On the street? In a home? In a shop? 

In university spaces, I often find there to be an emphasis on “belief.” What do people think, what do they read, what do they write? Enjolras is an “only son” and “well off” (585). He is approaching revolution with an air of belief—what does he think? What does he see? He deeply believes in the revolution. Yet, I observed within him and these spaces, a sense of belief rather than need. He does not need resources: food, water, or shelter. He needs a following, he needs belief. He wants to die for something grand bolstered by the purity of his thought. Without a revolution, his hair blows aimlessly in the wind. With a revolution, it is a glorious flag. 

Their revolutionary thought is bolstered by space—they are made to believe their thoughts are deeply important and essential. They are institutionally backed by the university and are told they are capable of great thought. I do not make this observation to insinuate their observations or beliefs are not important, but rather to consider who universities continue to bolster and protect. It seems the “GIRLS KEEP OUT” sign is always posted but constantly evolving. Who loses out when learning is confined to certain years, certain spaces, and certain roles? What do we gain when we create physical spaces that necessitate inclusion? What is the difference between a  microcosm and a community? How do we recalibrate to focus on bringing people in rather than leaving them out? How do we continue to cultivate revolutionary spaces? 

Although the ABC Cafe is a highly imperfect model of exclusion, there is such a truth for me within it. It shows the importance of physical spaces where people feel safe to exchange ideas, change their way of thinking, and let these discussions lead to action. With one sentence, Marius allows himself to rethink his relationship with Napoleon. How many spaces have I been in where I witnessed someone change their thinking rather than defend it? 

For me, Enjolras ultimately becomes a sort of cautionary tale. There are so many things I want to fight for with my community. I relate to the fervor of wanting change. I understand seeing what needs to be destroyed and reborn, and believing it can be done. The ability to fight is a sort of deep optimism and hope. What I don’t relate to, however, is Enjolras’s joyless pursuit of revolution. Hugo writes, “He was serious; he seemed unaware that there was on earth a creature called woman. He had only one passion: rightfulness. Only one thought: to remove any obstacle to it” (585). Enjolras was dead long before he was murdered. I do not want to be loveless in my pursuit of revolution. I do not want my passion to be “rightfulness” rather than “community.” 

I wonder what the revolution would have been if Enjolras had taken himself and that golden hair less seriously. What would have been if the fierce leader fell in love—with a woman or community or dark hair? Who would have been let into the space? Who would have made it out alive? 

Drawing by Vidya Iyer

Naming the Revolution

The French have a certain way about them when it comes to protest. Every other week, it feels like you hear about a strike in Paris from this group of workers or that group of activists.

In Les Misérables, Victor Hugo writes ad nauseam about revolution and protest and riot and insurrection and what it means to advocate against a government or power structure that you don’t agree with. He often refers to the specific revolutionary events in the novel by their year. “Our 1789,” he writes, or “their 1776.” There are so many that he resorts to naming them by the year.

The monument at the Bastille (Thank you to Julia for the picture!)

To me, this city seems to just breathe revolution. Everywhere we turn, there are reminders of what these streets have seen. Every day on my transit journey to our morning class, I transfer from the Métro line 12 to line 8 at the station called Concorde. Just above me is La Place de la Concorde, formerly known as La Place de la Révolution. This is where, just a couple hundred years back, the guillotine stood during the Reign of Terror. The day we visited, it was pouring rain outside, and it seemed to fit the mood of the horrors that took place in that square. (Though I suppose this isn’t too remarkable–we’ve been hit with rain nearly every day during our first two weeks in Paris.)

Then, on line 8, just one stop before mine, I pass through Bastille–yes, that Bastille. The same one from A Tale of Two Cities in which Dr. Mannette was imprisoned for eighteen years. The same one that was stormed during the French Revolution and destroyed. Now, in its place stands a monument in remembrance not of the Bastille, but of the July Revolution of 1830, yet another one of Paris’ infamous revolutions. Don’t worry–the French celebrate Bastille Day every year on the 14th of July. We visited the Bastille on one of our first days in Paris, and I was stunned that such a historic location was just a few blocks away from our study center. The outline of where the pillars and building stood is painted on the streets surrounding the monument. It doesn’t look like much without context, bursitis so interesting to see in person.

Other stations on the lines I take include Assemblée Nationale, École Militaire, Invalides, République, and the aptly named, Liberté. So many references to government, revolution, the military–and these are just the ones I recognize. It’s all reminiscent of when I visited Boston, and all the streets were named things like “Revolutionary Way” and “Freedom Drive.” I laughed at how on the nose it was then, and I’m finding myself having the same reaction here.

The city seems to scream, “Remember what happened here! Remember what we fought for!” I’m not quite used to that. Much like London, the visible reminders of how much history the city has seen is almost overwhelming. It is no wonder that revolutionary spirit is still alive and active in Paris after all of these years: Parisians are constantly being reminded of the resilience of their people.

Not a coffee drinker, but I had a café crème at a café in the Latin Quarter. Felt like a true Parisian student!

In the Latin Quarter in the 5th arrondissement of the city, the student life of Paris thrives. There, we passed the Sorbonne, a building which has historically housed many Paris universities. We visited the Pantheon, passed by many shops, and located where the Café Musain would have been. Seeing the cafés lining the streets around the university, I couldn’t help but think about Enjolras, Marius, Grantaire, and the rest of the Friends of the ABC, sitting around tables, discussing strategy, politics, and their lives. Deep in the Latin Quarter, students across time have held protests, discussed politics, and made strides towards progress and revolution. To be in the streets where, in 1968, students lined the streets with barricades, or where, for centuries, young, progressive students talked about what they wanted the future of Paris to look like, was thrilling. I could practically see Enjolras sitting in the cafés, or rather I was imagining him as the young men I saw sitting in them.

Revolution stays alive in Paris, not just because of their naming of it, but because of the young people. It is a joint effort. Without the constant reminders in the streets of revolution, the youth would have nothing to base themselves on. Without the youth, it is unlikely that future progress and new ideas could be fostered to the extent that they are today. The students are the future, for better or for worse, and what a better place for them to conjure up new ideas than in a city full of revolutionaries.

Bookpacking Alphabet

This trip has been more formative and experiential than I could have ever imagined: I truly did not anticipate learning so much not only about literature and these cities, but also about life, and the ways in which I would like to live it.I have gained so much knowledge about myself, and have realized that, at some point in my life, I would love to live in both London and Paris. I love both of these cities so much now, and I am so excited to try and learn some French so I can be prepared the next time I find myself here. I was thinking about what to do for my last blog, and I thought of the idea to make a bookpacking alphabet: each letter with something(s) from bookpacking or the books or my personal adventures in London and Paris. Here it is!

Stained glass in the Eglise Saint-Severin

A is for 

  • Asking for things in French when I know that I won’t be able to understand their answer 

  • Avenue des Gobelins, next to the Gorbeau tenement.

B is for 

  • Barricade, of course

  • Baron Hausmann and his big boulevards

  • Brick Lane and the Bangladeshi community

C is for 

  • Cosette and Lucie, the paragons of purity and light as written by their respective male authors. They are too young to be married, according to me, and too blonde for a personality, according to Dickens and Hugo.

D is for 

  • Darkness into Light: Thenardier “rescuing” Jean Valjean rescuing Marius in the sewer, Jean Valjean revealing his identity in court, Javert taking his life

E is for

  • Eros and Psyche embracing in the Louvre with such love and devotion as if they aren’t being stared at by tourists from across the world; very French of them.

F is for

  • Fortnum and Masons tea parlor and luxury foods

  • 70 famines in India in 200 years of British colonialism

G is for

  • The Gherkin…

H is for

  • Hotel de Ville, where executions used to take place and the blood spilled and lives taken can be felt in the ground

I is for

  • Intimacy, where the French seem to thrive and their reputations precede them

  • Les Invalides, Napoleon Bonaparte’s massive mausoleum where his massive tomb sits in a crypt beneath a sunny fresco. He has a great view, but I can’t seem to think he is very happy in his death; the tomb itself conjures images of being pressed to death.

J is for

  • Jarvis Lorry, up in Temple Bar, scribbling away at some financial report with heads staked outside his window

  • Jarvis Lorry, in St-Germain-de-Pres, watching the Parisian mob sharpen their bloody instruments of death covered in rags and odd clothes, equally bloodied.

K is for

  • King Louis XIV and his Palace of Versailles, King Louis XVII and his Palace of the Tuileries, the Reign of Terror, and the return to the monarchy after it all.

L is for 

  • Lightness into Dark: Fantine’s descent into poverty, watching Marius choose to join Enjolras on the barricade, _____

  • Liberty Leading the People, at the risk of being trite.

M is for

  • Musée De L’Orangerie: every piece of art I have ever made, I am convinced, is inspired by Monet’s Water lilies. Ever since the first time I saw these paintings in a book or magazine when I was a child, I think that they have lived in my mind and informed every color, brushstroke, line, and word in everything I’ve ever created.

N is for

  • Nighttime: the ways in which a city changes when the sun goes down

O is for

  • Opulence, and all its manifestations: in Buckingham Palace, in Versailles, in tea parlors, in luxury brand department stores. Ostentatious displays in 1789 and in 2023

  • The Opera; if I were a phantom, I would haunt this place too.

  • Old money

P is for

  • Peter Pan-funded Great Ormond Street Children's Hospital

  • Perseverance, as was needed on some of the longer, hotter, colder, or rainier afternoon excursions 

Q is for

  • Quaint streets in both Paris and London, with old stone facades, trailing ivy, adorable awnings, cobblestone paths, old books, and signs whose origins span centuries.

R is for

  • Russell Square station, right by our London accommodations, and Russell Square Gardens, which we walked through to get to the station.

S is for 

  • Stained glass

  • Sainte Chapelle 

  • Saint Germain 

  • Saint Antoine 

  • Saint Severin 

  • Saint Sulpice 

  • Snow, John

T is for

  • Tavistock Square and Virginia Woolf’s bust, aghast

U is for

  • Underground: the trains, the sewers, the crypts, the Catacombs

V is for 

  • Victor Hugo’s crypt in the Pantheon or Victor Hugo’s house or Victor Hugo Avenue  

  • Vidya takes on London and Paris, alternatively

W is for 

  • West End’s Sondheim theater and leaning over the row in front of us to see Les Miserables on stage

  • Westminster Abbey and the poets corner; did any of those people really want to be buried there?

X is for 

  • Xenophobia: I’m thinking about the ways in which Paris and France have cemented themselves as places for refugees and immigrants from across the world to go to, but yet is one of the most anti-immigrant places in the world. After going to the mosque, the idea of Frenchness as the primary identity was a little terrifying.

Y is for 

  • Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, where Charles Dickens ate his meals and I had fish and chips for the first time; I’m still not sure how to feel about it.

Z is for 

  • zed

The Absence of Social Welfare, The Absence of Art: Along the Streets of Jean Valjean's Walk

One thousand, two-hundred and seventy-five pages into Les Miserables, the almost superhuman Jean Valjean approaches his death following his increasingly shorter walks, originally making it all the way to Cosette’s house before turning around, then the street before, then not even that, until eventually the once infallible Jean Valjean becomes confined to his bed. The streets that Jean Valjean walked are named, and we walked the same streets he once did. We found the street corners where he gave up and turned around: the Rue St-Louis, the Rue Culture-Ste-Catherine, the Rue des Trois-Pavillons.

My first thought when beginning Jean Valjeans walk was how sad even the street looked. Even at midday, the street was empty. In his day that wasn’t true. The book describes how the children laughed at him, calling him “simple-minded,” as he did his walks with no one and nothing in his mind but seeing Cosette. Today, the walk trades jeering schoolchildren for claustrophobia, as the narrow street adds a sense of foreboding to what would be a somber walk. But as you turn the corner on Valjean’s walk, the street does open up eventually.

And it opens up to, coincidentally, two early examples of social welfare. The first is on the Rue des Francs Bourgeois, named so because a noble provided a mansion for the purpose of housing 48 of the Francs Bourgeois, citizens unable to pay taxes, for free. The second of which is the Mont de Piete, an organization that served as a pawn broker that helped provide cash to those who were impoverished. At Hugo’s time of writing Les Miserables, and at Jean Valjean’s time of walking these streets, these social welfare organizations had already existed. That these early examples, albeit small and limited, of welfare existed is remarkable, and gets at the social reform aspect of the novel, even though the placement of Jean Valjean’s walk past them is likely entirely coincidental.

It is the absence of welfare – and the systems that fill in that void that Les Miserables concerns itself with. Jean Valjean’s original rescuing of Cosette can be read as a form of welfare. As mayor of Montreuil-sur-Mer, Jean Valjean feels personally responsible for Fantine, a woman who dies of poverty as a result of Jean Valjean’s appointed officer firing her. Stepping in and taking care of her orphaned daughter – Cosette – is an example of the ethos of social welfare, even if it’s only done out of a sense of personal responsibility, rather than institutionalized on a system-level.

While originally embodying the ethos of social welfare, their relationship quickly becomes more complicated. The reliance of Cosette on Jean Valjean changes as they age, as it becomes Jean Valjean that is reliant on Cosette for her company and emotional support to bring him happiness. For this reason, he is originally resistant to her and Marius forming a relationship, fearing her separation from him. And it is due to this separation from her that he ends up in the depths of misery, and eventually, his deathbed. It is the absence of social welfare and institutionalized systems of support and communities of care that lead to this reliance of Jean Valjean on Cosette, and shows how in the absence of a community containing the ethos of social welfare, it is solely the burden of family to care for each other. This reliance on the family reinforces patriarchal notions as the burden often falls on women like Cosette to provide emotional support rather than finding it within the community. This lack of alternative support systems is thus one of the driving forces behind this final arc of the story, leading to scenes of great drama and great tragedy.

The same day we walked the route Jean Valjean walked, we visited The Museum of Paris, which contains relics of another form of social welfare in Paris’ history: specifically, remnants from the Paris Commune. While deeply flawed, this commune allowed people the chance to make art, providing the opportunity to people who otherwise would lack the chance, whether from financial constraints or temporal limitations. The commune recognized the fundamental humanity in the creation of art, and how when our basic needs are met, we turn to art as if by instinct.

This idea recurred in my mind when I later visited the Louvre. While I was amazed by many of the paintings, including all the paintings by Leonardo Da Vinci and Caravaggio, the painting that moved me the most was “Still Life with Fish and Other Sea Creatures,” a painting with a sea turtle on its back, shedding a tear, surrounded by other dying fish, right above a fish with a snout suggestive of a sword. Surrounded by paintings of biblical scenes and figures this still life of sea animals stood out in a way that made me look at the scene as one of emotional valence, rather than just an expression of artistic ability. This made me wonder: what would the Louvre look like if the history of art was developed by people of different backgrounds, of all sorts of scenes. I think the Louvre would be a lot more interesting that way. This is what social welfare allows. Social welfare doesn’t just save lives – it enriches them, allowing people to build relationships outside the limitations of financial reliance, to have support beyond just the family – to have the chance to admire art, and to make it.

The Belly of The Monster

Paris is a city adorned with grand architectural marvels and opulence. The city's dazzling charm is enhanced by the romantic ambiance of cobblestone streets, scenic bridges, and enchanting neighborhoods. As you saunter through the Parisian streets, you breathe in the delightful, tantalizing scent of fresh pastries permeating the air and you think to yourself, “Wow, isn’t Paris lovely.”

You obviously can’t go to Paris without visiting the Eiffel Tower, The Louvre, Notre Dame Cathedral and the Arc de Triomphe (just to name a few). I have loved being a tourist in this marvelous city but being a bookpacker has unlocked an entirely different experience of Paris in my eyes.

We have been mapping our way through Paris, walking in the footsteps of the characters in Les Misérables and unpacking their complex narratives. But today we would not be venturing above ground and instead descending below the surface to the Musée des Égouts de Paris: The Paris Museum of Sewers.

The sewers serve as a powerful backdrop for the climax of Les Misérables when Jean Valjean heroically rescues wounded Marius from the barricades and enters the sewers in order to flee from the authorities. The sewers contrast sharply with the city's more prominent and opulent areas and serve to represent the stark realities of poverty and inequality. Hugo metaphorically utilizes the sewers as a space for characters like Jean Valjean to undergo this personal journey of transformation and emerge from darkness to light.

But before continuing to describe Jean Valjean’s valiant story, Hugo goes on a tangent (like he always does) diving into the history of the Paris sewer system. In about 20 pages, Hugo provides details of the construction and layout of the Paris sewers, and how they have evolved over the years. Reading this fascinating chapter provided me a rough understanding of the treacherous journey Jean Valjean had to take, but going down and walking through the various tunnels and channels helped me empathize with Jean Valjean and recognize his true determination and resilience.

As all 16 of us plunged down into the sewers to trace Jean Valjean’s expedition, I tried activating my five senses to fully immerse myself in the experience. When you first walk into the Musée des Égouts de Paris, you are presented with a captivating timelapse of the evolution of the Paris sewers. Watching the sewers advance over time combined with the history Hugo provides in the novel helped me discern how utterly fascinating and complex these sewers really are.

The further I ventured through the sewers the stronger the smell got: it was truly nauseating. There were a couple of times where I gagged and had to hold my jacket over my nose to mask the pungent smell.

But then I thought back to Jean Valjean.

He not only had to navigate these odorous smells, but had to walk waist-deep through these filthy waters while carrying a heavy body over his shoulders. In complete darkness, he ventured into the sewers knowing there was a possibility of drowning or getting trapped in the “belly of the monster” (1147).

I could envision Jean Valjean dripping with sweat, trudging along in his boots with his clothes sopping wet. I tried stepping inside the mind of Jean Valjean and contemplating what I would do if I were him. My mind would be racing with anxious thoughts, and I would feel so lost and hopeless in the dark, cold sewers. However, I think the power of love would drive me to do everything I can to save a person I deeply care about, just like Jean Valjean did.

Jean Valjean’s love for Cosette enables him to navigate the complex sewer system and find a way out of the darkness to save Cosette’s husband Marius. While reading Les Misérables, I knew Jean Valjean loved Cosette greatly, however being down in the sewers to witness first-hand how challenging and extreme the conditions were showed me the extent of his love and determination. My admiration for Jean Valjean’s selflessness and resilience grew tremendously after this experience.

Seeing the Paris sewers was one of the most memorable and unique moments during my bookpacking journey. What I have loved about bookpacking is that it has allowed me to be at the forefront of the story and understand what my characters are seeing, hearing, smelling, feeling and tasting. Physically being down in the sewers to experience a small chunk of what Jean Valjean experienced allowed me to empathize with him more deeply. There is something so incredible about immersing oneself in the place a character inhibits compared to just reading about their experience!

 

Gold Coins and Wedding Rings

Looking back on our time bookpacking, one of the most exciting locations we visited was the church of Saint Louis du Marais. At this church, notable sequences in both A Tale of Two Cities and Les Miserables unfold!

In A Tale of Two Cities, Monsieur the Marquis, a heartless French aristocrat, strikes and kills a poor boy with his carriage at this site. “With wild rattle and clatter, and an inhuman abandonment of consideration not easy to be understood in these days, the carriage dashed through the streets and swept round corners, with women screaming before it, and men clutching each other and clutching children out of the way. At last, swooping at a street corner by a fountain, one of the wheels came to a sickening little jolt, and there was a loud cry from a number of voices, and the horse reared and plunged” (Dickens 114). At this moment, a child is murdered by the rich man, who then shows no remorse; “ It is extraordinary to me,’ said he, ‘that you people cannot take care of yourselves and your children”, and then “He threw out a gold coin for the valet to pick up, and all the heads craned forward that all the eyes might look down at it as it fell” (115). Needless to say, this is a truly loathesome man. Flippantly paying a grieving father a gold coin for the loss of his son is utterly despicable. His complete lack of respect for the lower class is alarming and disgusting. Spoiler alert, Monsieur the Marquis is killed later for his actions- woohoo!

The Marquis by Harry Furniss

Alternatively, in Les Miserables, Cosette and Marius are wedded within the very same church. Readers of the foreword will note that this wedding date, February 17th 1833, is no coincidence: “Marius and Cosette’s wedding night- which was the date of Hugo’s first night with the actress Juliette Drouet, when ‘I awoke with love’, which began a liaison that lasted for fifty years” (Tombs XXV). Regardless of the scandalous origin of the date of this union, Hugo describes the day of the ceremony with “ It had been a wonderful day. It was not the fairy-tale wedding dreamed of by the grandfather, a fantastic spectacle with a riot of cherubim and cupids above their heads of the bridal pair, a marriage scene to grace a door panel, but it was charming and delightful” (Hugo 1219). He clarifies after that this is because weddings were rushed in those days and there is too much fuss. This is ironic because upon entering the church, I saw nothing but beauty and luxury- how could this not be a fairytale? You can feel the aura of warmth in the place even though it is made of cool stone, and imagining the moment at which Cosette and Marius become a married couple is such a lovely sight.

It is fascinating to me that in these two stories, such different displays of intense emotion are shown. For A Tale of Two Cities, some of the worst moments of humanity are shown in this part. The desperation and hopelessness of the crowd in tandem with the selfishness and lack of respect of the Marquis highlight some of the most horrible aspects of mankind. A polar opposite is drawn in Les Miserables. With this wedding, what a beautiful and light display of human compassion is observed!

Interestingly enough, in the books there exists one slight parallel: the loss of a child. While in Dickens’ story, a little boy is cruelly murdered, a different (and certainly less gruesome) kind of loss is felt by Valjean and Guillenormand, Marius’ grandfather who behaves as a father. For Valjean and Guillenormand, their children are given up for one another. They become, at the altar, a union separate from their parents. They no longer will rely on their nuclear family, as they are starting their own, and Cosette takes Marius’ last name. It is within Valjean that a deep sadness brews with the loss of his little girl, which is only intensified by his loneliness without a wife or family or friends; He feels the loss intensely whereas Guillenormand is more gleefully celebratory of this union. While the father in A Tale of Two Cities physically loses his son, these parental figures in Les Miserables lose their children in a different kind of way. 

Now this area shows little trace of the stage on which these stories are set. The nearby fountain described by Hugo is nowhere to be found, but one can easily spot a cluster of metro stations and a spectacularly gaudy carousel in the square today. Although it takes a bit of brain power, if you stand on these stone streets, you can still picture the evil striking of the nameless boy and if you float into the church, you can imagine the pomp of the wedding. In the echoes of Saint Louis du Marais, you may even hear Cosette and Marius whispering their “I do’s”.