The Louvre may have been THE highlight for this trip. What is there to say that doesn’t speak for itself? (I guess we’ll find out because I’m gonan write a blog about) it One of the grandest collections of art on the planet, and you’re given free roam of it. That’s pretty good.
It’s also pretty exhausting. The French don’t really believe in water fountains, I don’t think, which is especially tragic when the only two places to purchase water in the museum have lines comparable to the one in front of the Mona Lisa? But it was such a rare opportunity I persevered, my throat dry and my head pounding with a headache. I first headed to the section with all the typical goodies, the Mona Lisa, Liberty Leading the People, and The Coronation of Napoleon. They were all great, not at all disappointing like I’ve heard some say. The Mona Lisa was small, yes, but still, pretty amazing to see in person. But The Coronation of Napoleon, my god. The sheer detail is awe-inspiring. It should be comedic, this pompous little man superseding the pope in a silly outfit. But it’s not, in fact it’s beautiful. I will never not be shaken by the sheer propaganda of Napoleon Bonaparte.
Liberty Leading the People was equally inspiring. I’m no expert on visual art, and certainly not paintings, but there’s something about seeing the brush strokes in real life, versus in a picture or a print that make it pop more. This grand image of revolution, of surging forth over death and cries of war– this made for some pretty good propaganda as well. I almost bought some merch, and probably would have if what they offered in the gift shop was any better. I thought of the ABC, and the barricade, and the facing of certain death. The image of that flag waving in the musical, as shots are fired, is seared into my brain.
It would be remiss though, not to mention the somewhat strange depiction of her breast being out? And where does this image of female revolutionary leadership come from, the french seem a little enamored with it– see the Statue of Liberty – when women weren’t exactly seen as equals in the revolution. Better than what they had before, sure, but see Marie Antoinette, or Hugo’s rejection of women in the ABC or sidelining of Éponine for examples on how even progressives weren’t so great on that front.
I spotted this fun painting, though I can’t remember when. I was immediately reminded of Monseigneur in A Tale of Two Cities. The painting isn’t even unkind to the subject, it makes no statements about his character, so I have no idea what the artists' intention was. But this fat, pompous man attempting to appear regal atop his horse, while a whole group of servants surrounds him, is hilarious. I thought of Monseigneur requiring four men to serve him chocolate. They're even all in uniform! Heck, not just the clothes, but their hair is cut the same. It’s just so absurdly unnecessary, and more a display of wealth than it even is a luxury. There’s a servant here carrying an umbrella for him, despite the fact that he is on a horse and his servant isn’t. Is the only purpose of his servant walking to emphasize the wealth disparity? What’s the point? It’s such a profoundly comedic display of the indulgence of this kind of wealth. I wonder if this man commissioned this painting himself. I hope he did, it’s so ridiculous to imagine he thought this was a good idea.
On an unrelated topic, rather amazingly we found our Metro station is the very start of the 1968 riots, Les Goeblins. Every time I stepped down there, I somehow missed that this was the very heart of the revolution that wasn’t to be. Metros make sense, I realized. In the absence of the narrower streets that once belonged to Paris before Napoleon III decided to transform it, it’s a nice, easier place to defend. Plus, the tunnels can take you anywhere– there’s plenty of places to retreat to if you can’t defend yourself.
Also near us is the Latin Quarter, where there are narrower streets, and I can see barricades being far easier to throw up here. I think the barricades themselves, as do I think 1968, are a particularly interesting way to do revolution. The ABC attempts to inspire, not overthrow the government themselves. Essentially, the object is getting your message out, and survival. What’s amazing is that they don’t back down, even when there is no chance of victory. These young men died for a lost cause. It’s inspiring, it’s stupid, and it’s a piece of history I won’t forget.