Spencer Zahabizadeh

Eating Louisiana: Last Sunrise to Sunset

As I type, I try to recall all the memories and connections that I made in the Southern state of Louisiana. All the locations we visited, the food and drink we devoured (especially this), and the lessons we learned when weren’t expecting them. In Grand Isle, I was taught the importance of rest and relaxation through the eyes of Kate Chopin’s The Awakening. Creoles like Edna do not let world events dictate their state of mind. Rather, they let themselves and nature take the steering wheel. This island was a great introduction into exploring my own Creole roots as well as grasping what it meant to live outside city lights. As a group, we shared our interests and aspirations over troves of fried (and non-fried) dishes, ranging from okra and fish po’boys at Starfish to jambalaya and meat pies at Jo-Bob’s Gas & Grill. The house-like cabin we stayed in played an immense role in easing conversation. A communal space was what we needed to break the ice and set the foundation for the relations that we nurtured throughout the rest of the Maymester.

One good meal reminds us of why we want to be alive.
— Andrew Chater

If you want to satisfy your stomach, eat alone. If you want to take your taste buds farther, I recommend bringing a group to the table. The Big Easy absolutely adores this concept of food-sharing. In Anne Rice’s Interview with the Vampire, Louis, Lestat, and Claudia become almost inseparable during their nights of terror and hunger. From this novel, I was taught to never roam this city’s streets alone and to travel in a group, even if that group decides to split off and you find yourself in that fateful IHOP. Reflecting on these first encounters with the city, I was brought back to a phrase that I encountered while reading in Grand Isle: “si tu savais” (if only you knew). Despite the expertise and rigorous planning of our professor, it would be the moments where things did not go as planned that made the moments memorable, and that first night was no exception.

While in NOLA, I was also given a deeper perspective into life’s meaning via the words of Walker Percy’s The Moviegoer. Sitting in the Audubon Park, our group came to terms with how life is not about strictly following a deep purpose or meeting deadlines and obligations. For me, it is about using time in our own way, to enjoy the things that we like, meet new people, and to grow out of our past perceptions brought on by society’s everlasting weight. And there is no better place to accomplish all these feats than to be amongst the crowd of a Second Line parade on a Sunday afternoon. Watching the Jazz Fest documentary, I got a deeper dive into the cultural background of the people who lived and breathed New Orleans air. Before the film, I never knew about the city’s Cuban influence…although I was getting slight hints each time I saw a Cuban sandwich listed on the menu. Listening to the artists and observing the endless food vendor booths, I would love to check out the festival if I ever get the chance. What’s that phrase again? “Laissez les bons temps rouler” (let the good times roll). I don’t care how many times I hear it; it still holds significance. After this bookpacking venture, I will still find ways to incorporate this style of living into my daily rituals. If you ever decide to venture into this city – alone or with a few companions – just remember: for every dark alley and vice-ridden daiquiri stop, there is a wholesome Thai lady waiting to greet you with a Mai Tai, crispy tofu and okra, and a story.

Downtown Baton Rouge was where I felt I grew the most. In a quiet, almost ghost-like city, I learned about the impact that politics and race have on a community. Political figures like Huey P. Long sought to rally the local populations in the hopes of improving common folks’ lives. Speaking on race, Ernest J. Gaines’s A Lesson Before Dying was both one of my favorite and challenging books to read. In one of my previous blogs, I talked on the importance of community and bringing its inhabitants together in order to alter the racially charged norms of Southern society. During the course of the blog, I made a grave mistake, one that speaks on the issues that plague our American society when talking about race. Using the word “colored” in describing the people of Bayonne, the town that Grant found himself trapped in; it was at this moment I let down my group and completely disregarded the lessons in our seminars. With this terminology, I was dehumanizing the very community that I wanted to bring out of the pages and acknowledge. My conscience as a writer did not match with the words that I typed. One side of me feels that I made this decision to fit with the demands of literary accuracy and historical context. The other side, however, finds the mistake to be part of a learning gap which ties back into society’s inability to fully communicate the idea of racial equality. In all my academic years, never once was I taught the difference in capitalizing the word “black.” After one of our group discussions, I immediately went on my laptop and found an article on this topic from the New York Times. The article illustrated how Black is utilized to represent a shared culture and history, a shared identity; this concept is similar to the capitalization of Asian, Hispanic, and Native American. Today, we have a voice to change societal norms, whereas the Black community in Gaines’s book did not have this luxury, and it pains me to say that I was completely disregarding this important difference; After this Maymester, I will be taking this crucial moment of reflection and proactively – as well as consciously – reforming my writing to reflect my new mindset, to channel Gaines’s vision of a modern society where color is not the deciding factor for one’s way of living and dying.

As we journeyed through these novels, our group profited both physically and spiritually. These past few weeks have been filled with lessons, laughs, and over-cramped stomachs. What I will be lugging back with me are not just the souvenir shirts and extra calories, but the memories with my group mates, my comrades in arms (knives, forks, and all). I want to give a shout-out to Key who lent her voice when no one else dared. I want to also thank our incredible professor and logistics coordinator Andrew not just for the insightful material and local connections that he has relentlessly gathered, but also the personal stories that he was willing to share with us. As I savor these last bites of Louisiana, I think about how I was able to physically plant my feet in the very soil that my family migrated from so many years ago. My final takeaway that I want to share can be applied to all stages in life: keep learning and be open to new things and people; through these transactions that we willingly partake in, one may unexpectedly find happiness.

Trojans chilling near a fountain!

25 days of Louisiana’s best.

Chasing Cajun Spirit

Cajun…what do we mean when we say this word? Are we referring to the blue-collar population that is peppered across the sweet and spicy state of Louisiana? Or, are we referring to a spirit through which we can master the fiddle and eat an entire roll of boudin in one sitting? Technically we are referring to both, but let’s stick with the latter for now! The spirit was sought after viciously by me and the gang as we spent our remaining days in Lafayette. To set the mood, we read short stories from Tim Gautreaux’s Same Place, Same Things. One of the stories that gripped my attention from the first to the last page was “Floyd’s Girl,” which was about a girl named Lizette who gets kidnapped by her mother’s Texan boyfriend. While this may not be the boyfriend’s first time venturing into the state, Louisiana natives like T-Jean’s grandmère still see him as just another foreigner, a “cou rouge” (red neck) intruding on their territory. During this great chase, the spirit of the Cajun people is brought to focus through musical lore as well as through typical Southern food staples.

Speaking of Southern food staples, me and the gang stopped by a restaurant / café in Beaux Bridge named Tante Marie. We were there on account of two main objectives. Along with being served some scrumptious breakfast / lunch, we tuned our ears to the lively jam session that was situated right near the entrance. Looking closely at one of the signs, there appeared to be a live band rotated into this spot every Sunday. The band consisted of several fiddlers, a guitar, and accordion. This was my first introduction to the Cajun rhythm; the spirit carried me on through the boudin-filled pastries and uplifted my soul. If only I brought my spare harmonica with me. When listening to the strings and the strums of the instruments, I could see why Gautreaux may have incorporated musical lore into his stories. In capturing the Cajun spirit, Gautreaux was trying to offer more than just a genuine Southern setting to his common reader; he wanted his local community to bask in the nostalgia, to be fully aware of class and culture distinctions. As the fiddles moaned their final whine for the day, our group got back on the road to continue the chase.

Our best attempt at recreating the chase scene from “Floyd’s Girl”

I feel like I’m two different people.
— Tim Gautreaux, "Waiting for the Evening News"

After our scenic drive through rural country, we arrived at Tom’s cozy cottage house where we met several of his band companions. Inside, the house embodied a communal framework: family photographs and local recreational activities decorated the walls, a fridge littered with business cards and stickers. Tom, a Massachusetts native, was not only responsible for guiding the bow onto the fiddle, but also for repairing the instrument. This was craftmanship that went well beyond the ability to play in front of a crowd; Tom took a stake in maintaining the fiddles’ conditions so that the music may live on through another set of hands. Rows upon rows of fiddles took on the majority of the ceiling space. Even with their own unique identities, they collectively sung Cajun pride in harmony. Listening to the melody, I was confused as to where to plant my feet. On one end of the house, my ear begged me to stay with the band playing with the mandolins, fiddles, and guitars. At the front entrance, a second band entranced my other ear to loiter around and admire the roaring accordion. Bluegrass, an Appalachian genre of music, flowed in and out of the hands of these musicians. The technique for both band groups was simple: improvisation. Similar to free-style jazz, you had no strict codes to follow…only a heart and a passion. At this moment, I questioned whether we were merely Californian trespassers, invading the space of these fine rural folk to hear their musical talent. Seeing Andrew on fiddle and Emery strumming the guitar, I was convinced that we were in fact not just spectators from another planet; we were people of the same world, enchanted by the same spirit.

With the fiddles and mandolins dying down a bit, I had the chance to strike up some conversation with one of the band members named Diane. Diane was from Baton Rouge, born and raised, but with relatives living outside of the state. She told me how her nephew was chasing after his dream of acting in California. However, the nephew settled for a job in the real estate game; he now has a wife and kid to support. Within our conversation, me and Diane glanced over New Orleans’s ethnic history as well as our food interests. One of the dishes that raised her eyebrows was my mentioning of the muffuletta (if I have not yet bored you to death with this glossy sandwich, then I have done my job). She knew about Central Grocery, but for her this was an overrated establishment and she had her local favorite spots to depend on, with fresher meat quality and plumper, crustier bread. A stout gentleman emerged from the door frame and came over to us; Diane introduced me to her husband Bob. Though Bob I was introduced to the dancing element of the music, a Cajun two-step if you will. The instructions were clear and effortless: a shuffle here and there with a spontaneous twirl. After our conversation on fiddle basics, I said my goodbyes to the couple and reconvened with the gang. In this cottage house, I became two people: one who was used to sitting in hours-long traffic and one who could not stop eating boudin and crackers to save his life. For this concept, I have to thank Gautreaux’s “Waiting for the Evening News,” a short story that revolves around Jesse McNeil, a chemical train operator who loses control of his locomotive and his own alcoholic self. The story also taught me that we can’t always control how the world perceives us; but the people we choose to interact with will always have a foot on our influences. It was enriching to have this be our last experience with the rural South, surrounded by the Cajun spirit in all its glory, tune, and taste.

A Lesson on Community

In our attempt to flee the luring neon lights and boisterous crowds of the Big Easy, we briefly made a stop in the Lower Ninth Ward to examine the reconstruction efforts of the town. This town held a special place in my heart; it was where most of my family members from my mom’s side were born and raised. Ever since I was a kid, I always wanted to learn more about myself and where I came from. As time went on, these interests slowly faded and were replaced with the general obligations of life. Truly, this Maymester has re-ignited a burning desire in me to continue on this historical and personal search for my original community. While the semi-reunion was spiritually lifting, the heart was not in a soft spot. The Ward – and areas just like it –was severely damaged by Hurricane Katrina. What me and the gang were seeing now was just a fraction of the reconstruction process. Part of the rebuilding efforts were made possible by a non-profit called the Make it Right Foundation. The foundation, initiated by Brad Pitt, is responsible for constructing over a hundred houses. While several sources may point out some of the damages brought on by the non-profit (e.g. cheap materials, faulty electrical, plumbing), no one could take away the fact that someone was at least trying to make a difference. At a time when the South’s inhabitants felt left behind, someone was willing to pick up the pieces of debris and hold the hammer. A town rebuilding from the ground, not just through the lavish donations of celebrities, but through the strong will of the locals. Migration did not prove to be the answer, and we will get to that topic a bit later as this significant event in history also holds a special place in my family’s legacy.

The Lower Ninth was the first of many steppingstones for our next novel. Written by Ernest J. Gaines, A Lesson Before Dying is a fictional recreation of the 1940s South when segregation was the new normal and racially driven policy could roam free without check and balance. The story is about a young Black man named Jefferson – in real life, his name was Willie Francis – who gets caught in a liquor store shootout and is unfairly sentenced to death by electrocution. The court system failed Jefferson – and even worse – convincing him that he was lesser than a human being. Emma, Jefferson’s godmother, has one request for her boy on his last day on earth: to stand up and become a man. From her perspective, if Jefferson cannot fulfill this task, then there will not be another soul brave enough to break the cycle of racial oppression that feeds off of their town. In his cell, Jefferson not only holds the key to his sanity but also the burden of the community, that which has been passed down for the past few centuries. And it will take a lot more than the iron bars and fellow inmates for him to reach his destiny.

I could look at the smoke rising from each chimney or I could look at the rusted tin roof of each house, and I could tell the lives that went on in each one of them.
— Ernest J. Gaines, A Lesson Before Dying

My first days in Baton Rouge left a big impression on me. A quiet, humble, downtown metropolis filled to the brim with national landmarks and accompanied by a voluptuous river which I could see no ending for in either direction. Living all my life in the bustling streets of Los Angeles, I never thought I would ever be saying these words in the same sentence. The place that Jefferson finds himself incarcerated is called Bayonne. Featuring 3500 whites and 2500 Blacks, this town offered an amenity and institution for each race. Ranging from separate churches to separate movie theaters, it was like a tale of two cities enclosed in one. This division paints the picture for what kind of society – or rather societies – that are at the throats of each other. On one side, we have a dignified and courteous white society that has been blessed with exceptional educational institutions and a sufficient number of recreational establishments and facilities. And on the other, a Black community which must live off the sweat of their labor and cannot afford just the right amount of ice cream. Bayonne is a representation of just how impactful skin color can be on the wellbeing of an individual during these decades, and how those long-term side effects have bled into modern day society. After settling into our hotel, me and some of the group went on a mini scavenging hunt in search of some goods to devour for the long night ahead of us. Food options were scarce and to be desired, but this was not what we came here for. Rather, the gang and I sought to feed our very souls with the greetings and kindness of the hospitable town folk.

Look, an oversized chimney!

Matherne’s Market

We stopped by Matherne’s Market, where the sushi was still fresh and a bank vault was itching to be opened. (If you don’t believe me, just ask Dwayne Johnson). At the checkout aisle, the cashier lady bombarded me with “sir’s.” In my counterattack, I referred to her as “mam.” Before going on this trip, I was told by my friends that this was a custom that Southerners could not live without. According to Google, these name placements are shown to be a sign of respect and political address. I didn’t buy this for a single second, and neither does my mom who always hated hearing those words in her early childhood days. For me, these two words – while they do invite courteous behavior – can also bring in a form of classification. Essentially, you are forced into a category from which you must uphold or else risk losing status or dignity with that person you are conversing with. As witnessed by Grant – a teacher and friend of Jefferson – it digs into your very identity. In order to “play his part” with the sheriff of the town, Grant must always address Guidry with “sir” or else risk being looked at as an undesired Black. This moment really frustrated me because you can’t be anything but what that other person tells you to be, and I don’t plan on bringing this formality back to my own hometown. The cashier lady was super nice, but the language her city stuck to did not give off welcoming intentions.

You’ll leave your church and just become – nothing?
— Ernest J. Gaines, A Lesson Before Dying

Over the course of Jefferson’s mental journey, he is battling the very faith that promises to bring people together. Gaines has placed religion as a central piece to the book; in Downtown Baton Rouge, religious monuments are not shied away from the public. I cannot tell you the history or even the names behind the churches and chapels our group crossed paths with, but I can say that they did stick out from the corporate offices. From Gaines’s eyes, religion is an other-worldly power that can rally the Black community at a time in history when education and illiteracy rates were at their lowest. For Tante Lou, Grant’s aunt, being Catholic means everything for a lady of quality, it is mixed into one’s identity. In her discussion with Vivian, Grant’s girlfriend, Lou is displeased after hearing about Vivian’s possible church transfer. Even if you take your religious practice elsewhere, your faith will not be impacted the same as it was with the presence of your community. For Vivian, moving out of town with Grant could mean the possibility of breaking away with her Catholic roots and losing her faith over time.

While there is some peace to be found in the religious garbs, being Catholic in this book is seen as a double-edged sword. On one end, Grant paints religion with this kind and merciful image through the viewing of Emma. Emma, who has lost her godson (Jefferson) to the discriminatory court system, finds a new “Master” to worship. God is the new leader for whom she will take the commands and guidance in the hope that it will spiritually bring back her boy. On the other end, people like Reverend Ambrose are using religion to deliberately lie to followers in the hopes that it will bring them joy and comfort. In fact, Ambrose explicitly tells Grant that he needs Jefferson to kneel before he can stand, fearing that the boy’s soul will be lost in hell. This action is not only meant to bring comfort to Jefferson, but also comfort to those like Emma who are looking for a way to relieve the pain that they endure from their white counterparts. Although there are good motives behind the lie, there are moments when religion can be abused for the sole purpose of benefitting a single party. In other words, slave owners can further exploit slaves by promising a heaven for their persistent hard labor. As seen by Jefferson, there is no racial union on the subject of God. The Lord only serves the interests of white folk and ignores the Black community in times of need. Visiting the Gaines’s estate near the False River was a truly unique experience; we were able to look inside a small church originally built in the 1930s, where Gaines used to receive lessons as a kid. Going into the church and observing the wooden benches which also served as student desks…I was brought back into the story, thinking about Grant’s teaching situation; a man – similar to Gaines – with a wavering faith, but still educating the next contributing members of the community while under the house of God…powerful.

Every man a king, but no man wears the crown

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Every man a king, but no man wears the crown 〰️

On a Tuesday, me and the gang went to visit the Louisiana State Capitol (the new one, not the old). The structure was built with just two years, a deadline unheard of in the political sphere of construction. This feat was made possible by the ambitions of one of the most inspirational political leaders of the South’s time: Huey P. Long. You can also call him Kingfish if that floats your ferry. Serving as Louisiana’s state Governor, Huey worked for his community, and the people willingly gave him the power and votes needed for immense reform such as building more roads and expanding medical and educational institutions. To put this in perspective, the Great Depression was rampant among the 1930s. The South’s people at this time found itself in this state of economic abandonment. And Huey – receiving the governor position in 1928 – was there to hold up the torch, to become a champion of the common man who could lead the community back on the route of progress. During his quest to crush the elites of his state, Huey introduced Share Our Wealth, a program designed to lower personal fortunes and give those impoverished Americans a monetary boost via annual grants. Regardless of the accomplishments brought on by the Long Administration, the change would not be enough to keep some of the Black communities in the South. A new life was sought after, preferably one with more palm trees and beaches as far as the West Coast stretched.

With the weakening rate of employment and desire for financial advancement, The Great Migration marked a turning point for African Americans across the South. This transition from rural to urban city living was not just predicated on changing economic circumstances, but to escape the divided racial landscape of the South. Grant is never shy in telling Vivian about his wish to leave for California, where his parents are staying. However, there is one ironic element that is keeping them from making the escape: family. Vivian has to think about her children and how they would be losing the values and people they are growing up with in the quarter. For Grant, he is only fixated on advancing his career, even if that new job promises to better the lives of his family. Additionally, if the two leave now, they jeopardize the love and connection with other members of their community like Emma and Tante Lou. After migrating out of the Lower Ninth, my relatives also looked to California as the beacon of change, well, two beacons. The first one was located southwest of Downtown Los Angeles in a city called Crenshaw, while the other – a little more well-known – was Oakland. Crenshaw was a town in which I could easily visit my aunts and uncles and still feel a connection with the Creole underbelly of Louisiana. Originally a Japanese community after World War II (this is very evident in some of the exterior of the homes if you ever decide to stop by), this neighborhood now boasted a strong Black population. Despite the immediate benefits of the Great Migration, there would still be hurdles for minority groups to face, two of the largest being redlining and eventually gentrification. Between these two evils, redlining was special in that it pushes people out of a potential home via discriminatory practices, resulting in a chain reaction of issues that can range from literacy rates to even crime rates. Through these harsh realities, a community of brave Black souls, young and old, from all corners of the deep South found a way to thrive in another foreign land, together as if they were family members coming back to a reunion.

I had heard the same carols all my life, seen the same little play, with the same mistakes in grammar…. Next year it would be the same and the year after that, the same again. Vivian said things were changing. But where were they changing?
— Ernest J. Gaines, A Lesson Before Dying

The lesson on community is at its climax during the last hours of Jefferson. During these final breaths, Jefferson is not only receiving gifts from his godmother, but also from various neighbors (e.g. pecans from school children and the radio bought using several monetary donations). As mentioned in our seminar, it can be quite hard to accept that receipt of love from others. Slowly, through the vision of Emma’s cooking, Jefferson accepts her gumbo and accepts his place back in the neighborhood. These gifts of giving can be viewed at as Jefferson’s own fair trial by peers, a trial which he never received during his prior sentencing. As depicted by Grant, this was a court system which relied on “Twelve white men [saying] a black man must die, and another white man [setting] the date and time without consulting one black person.” Despite this, the quarter recognizes Jefferson for who he really is: a man of their community. He is not a hog that gets force-fed the cruel power of white town members; he is a human being who represents the change in mindset that Gaines wants for Southern society.

Our group was honored to visit the cells and courthouse at Point Coupée (New Roads) Parish. In the courthouse, we met several significant figures of the local town, including the mayor and Sheriff Thibodeaux. Their views on community policing really struck me; this small conservative town understood the importance of this concept, and yet progressive cities like Los Angeles will struggle with its implementation.

The last parts of the tour involved visiting the courthouse and jail. In these cells, I thought about how Jefferson was feeling, how he got to his mental state…but also how he prevailed when all there was to see were iron bars and ice-cold floors. Was it his renewal in faith that brought his spirit back? Or rather, was it the loving members of his community who reminded him of what his true identity was before the corrupt policing system? As the past lingers, a community’s inhabitants must continue to stand up if they seek to protect their future for the next generations. Racism is one of those things that cannot be whisked away through the stroke of a chalk piece on a board. It has to be confronted, but not alone.

The Great Escape

To become aware of the possibility of the search is to be onto something. Not to be onto something is to be in despair.
— Walker Percy, The Moviegoer

After jamming out to the sweet tunes of jazz, our group transitioned into the grand search for life’s meaning and purpose. This thematic search is brought to you by a Big Easy literary classic, The Moviegoer. Written by Walker Percy, the novel revolves around an ordinary New Orleans citizen named Binx Bolling. After turning thirty, Binx sets out to pursue a more fulfilling life, one in which he can escape the mundane tasks of his stock brokering occupation. Using the spirit of Mardi Gras as a backdrop, Binx pursues an authentic experience that goes beyond his passion for the cinema world. In the next paragraph, I became aware of a cuisine that I did not even know I was searching for.

Until that fateful Tuesday evening, I only knew of Southern food as a fusion-less commodity. I have witnessed impoverished Cajun and fine-dining Creole, both here and in the vibrant downtown Los Angeles. And from those experiences, no chef dared to victimize my beloved crawfish and tender alligator to fit the needs of a modern, progressing society. And then there was Tsunami. We went to this restaurant for your basic sushi essentials and more: Miso soup, California rolls, dynamite rolls, and seaweed salad. To spice things up, we ordered a few appetizers like gyoza pork dumplings and Ika fries (basically strips of fried calamari tenderloin paired with a spicy mayo sauce).

My request to the kitchen went as follows: dynamite roll, ragin Cajun roll, eel nigiri, and a lush side of collard greens. That’s right, collard greens, but not just the kind you would find all across the French Quarter; these ones in particular contained kimchi spices and a spicy chili posture. I was unfortunately unable to order the big easy roll due to a lack in stomach capacity. However, thanks to the brave soul of one of my eaters in arms, Emery, we were able to accommodate some space on the table for this guest. While on this subject, let’s unpack what the big easy roll had to offer: snow crab, tempura shrimp, and – dare I say it – crawfish. After a couple bites, my agitated state of mind over this fusion passed over and I now craved something far more than the basic dishes offered at a sushi restaurant. Next up was the ragin Cajun, a generic avocado roll with a vital Southern component: panko-crusted alligator. These fusion-style dishes were what made me consider the importance of escaping the norms of society. Rather than play it safe and order the locals’ common staples, I should prioritize on getting out of my comfort food zone…yes, I am looking at you Ashley (the other seasoned foodie of this Maymester expedition). With the sake and lemon drops coursing through my veins, the night’s conversations felt fruitful and endless.

The evening came to a restful conclusion with the mango Hawaiian bread pudding, a sweet ending to a tasteful Tuesday!

Losing hope is not so bad. There’s something worse: losing hope and hiding it from yourself.
— Walker Percy, The Moviegoer

After a couple days with somewhat severe flashflood weather, me and the gang decided to hibernate in one of our hotel rooms and watch the movie A Streetcar Named Desire. The movie, which takes place in New Orleans, was adapted from a play written by an American screenwriter named Tennessee Williams. In the story, Stella finds herself in a toxic relationship with her husband Stanley who comes from a lower class. This battle between masculinity and femininity is best exemplified in the poker night scene where Stanley and Blanche, Stella’s older sister, are jostling for power over the radio. In the end, Stanley throws out the radio and slaps Stella. Despite Stanley’s violent tendencies, Stella denies her true circumstances in an attempt to hold onto control. She is a strong woman for not losing hope in the marriage itself, but at the same time she is denying herself the chance to walk away and escape from the harsh, working-class neighborhood that she remains bound to.

On Thursday, the gang and I drove deeper into the heart of New Orleans history with the visiting of the Louisiana State Museum. Located in the French Quarter, this museum hosted not only a rich background in Mardi Gras lore, but also featured powerful messages from the 2005 Hurricane Katrina. Within the Mardi Gras section, I found myself transported to another dimension, one in which capuchons were the fashion statement and medieval chivalry reigned supreme. It was really fascinating to see the connection between The Moviegoer’s mentioning of krewe’s – social organizations similar to a Second Line band – and to see them showcased in the exhibits. I learned more about what it meant to be a part of Mardi Gras spirit; this event is not just seen as a time to celebrate and let go of social restraints before Ash Wednesday and Lent. Rather, this special occasion was a time to masquerade into the upper class, to put on the costume, to become closer with society while at the same time maintaining class appropriateness. One of the exhibit sections that resonated with me were these 1870s costume designs for the Rex krewe. Coming from an Iranian household, it was spectacular to see both the mixing of my Persian and Creole heritage.

King’s Costume, Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club

King Rex nonchalantly sipping on his chalice

A sugar rush in every bite…nom nom nom!

Before the museum visit, I had a personal score to settle. The great debate commenced for the best beignet in the entire city of New Orleans. The two contestants: Café Beignet and Café du Monde. Our group’s preferences resulted in a tie, and I had set out to break it. The first of the beignets that I devoured came from Café Beignet. The pastries here were more on the larger, softer, puffier side, almost resembling that exterior of a doughnut. Powdered sugar caked the entire patio that we were sitting on. At one point, I think I became a delicious beignet myself. The beignet at this establishment was satisfying, but I had to make sure that we were indulging in the finest confection known to the Big Easy.

A lonesome beignet awaits its afternoon café au lait bath.

Afterwards, me and the gang went over to Café du Monde. Looking from the incredibly long lines, I could tell that we were in for a treat…or rather, we were just suckers in the endless cycle of tourism (luckily, it proved to be the former). While in line, our ears were greeted by Maurice the street musician. A native of South Carolina, Maurice introduced us to some country classics while also wielding a trombone. This additional instrument was unexpected yet typical of the New Orleans atmosphere; the musician had successfully fled the country melody norms and embraced the free spirit of NOLA. After the long wait, my teeth were finally given another taste of the beignet. Here at Café du Monde, the pastries are smaller and a lot more denser, but this serves a purpose. Holding a café au lait, dip the beignet into the cup and you’ve just become a pure native of the city. As stated by some of the group members, the coffee will be extremely bitter, but that’s okay. It is the powdered sugar – which litters the patio floors like a battleground – that will balance out the flavor to perfection. Once the last of the beignets entered my stomach, the verdict was clear: Café du Monde won my heart and taste buds.

To celebrate the class of 2022 graduates of this Maymester, our tiny group headed over to the French Quarter in search of the Carousel bar. The party consisted of me, Key, and Chelsea. Located in the Hotel Monteleone, the bar featured a carousel-themed area which slowly spun in a counter-clockwise manner. This place held a special place in my heart; it was a way in which us grads could retreat to our childish days and escape the mundane functions of the job world. To kick off the celebration, I ordered a Sazerac: a New Orleans classic containing rye whiskey, botanical bitters, simple syrup, and a lemon peel. Fun fact: it is believed that this drink is the first mixed cocktail in the world. The first sips were a bit on the strong side, with a wood-like aroma. To mellow out things, I switched gears and ordered a Fleur Des Lis. My mouth was now experiencing a complete contrast in flavor notes: sweet, refreshing, acidic. Normally I do not reach for the gin cocktails, but I had to make an exception as it was recommended by our bartender of the night, Parker D. Revolving around their workplace for nearly fifteen years, Parker and his sidekick knew how to run a bar and keep the lively spirits from dissipating. The live jazz playing in the background awakened my senses and gave me the courage to order off the menu. Parker took in my preferences – blackberry, lemonade, and rum – and concocted a satisfying beverage.

Sazerac

Fleur Des Lis

Ask Parker D, he’ll know!

In the course of my sipping and clinking of the glasses with the mates, I stroke up the nerves to conduct an interview with who appeared to be a local of the city. The old man was named Trey and he had a light, airy, Southern accent. His full-time work was water treatment in Mississippi; while not a glamorous occupation, this man had every intention of continuing his education in hopes of changing his financial circumstances. Later in our brief chat, I asked him about his thoughts on geological disasters like Hurricane Katrina and, most recently, Hurricane Ida. Without a moment of hesitation, Trey stated that all we could do was rebuild from scratch. My last inquiry regarded his views on Cancer Alley, a wide stretch of the Mississippi River dedicated to over a hundred oil refineries that specialize in petroleum production. This notorious name originated out of countless residents being diagnosed with cancers that specifically target the stomach, lungs, and even kidneys. In response, Trey denied the dire situation with Cancer Alley, stating that sources have found no cancerous substances in either the water samples or lab rats. My interviewee was a humble, yet resilient character. While we may have had our disagreements on the latter topic, we still shook hands and parted ways in the most courteous and honorable way possible.

Me and the grads took our final swigs of our respective elixirs and made our way off the carousel. The night was a last hurrah before submitting to the cold, bitter, heartless world…I’m just kidding! But seriously, these are the heartwarming moments that I will turn to in my first weeks at the office, reflecting on what has been rather than what could have been. New Orleans is the harbor for which we may deviate from the norms and openly express our inner identity.

A Taste of Camaraderie

The first night in New Orleans was a night I will not forget. The setting went as follows: a blending of old and new infrastructure, streetcars whizzing by in every direction, and a Willie’s Chicken Shack and daiquiri dispenser on nearly every corner. This town was a sinner’s best nightmare. I could not think of a better novel to prepare us for these ferocious streets other than Anne Rice’s Interview with The Vampire. Rice was a New Orleans native, born in the 1940s under a Catholic household. By the 1970s, Rice had a daughter who died of leukemia at the age of five. In 1976, Rice published this novel; one of the characters is a young vampire girl named Claudia, who is given a second chance at life after losing her parents. This new life, however, is one that is filled with death and despair. Although Claudia can no longer physically age, her mind ages with the times of her surroundings, molding her into an intelligent and fierce creature of the night.

I saw my real gods…the gods of most men. Food, drink, and security in conformity.
— Anne Rice, Interview with the Vampire

If I were a vampire, where would be the best place to masquerade? Well look no further than Bourbon Street. Since this was our first night in the Big Easy, me and the gang decided that it was time to immerse ourselves in one of the most notorious spots of this town. As I take each step, my eyesight was illuminated by all the dark wonders: debauchery, gluttony, and did I forget to mention the endless pizza splice counters? But do not be fooled by the bright neon lights, the kind solicitors, and the boisterous street performers. Just a like vampire, this street has fangs and will not give a second thought into who it punctures. So, as a gentle warning: do not venture into the night unless you have a companion, or two, by your side. As depicted through the words of the Frenchman Louis, companionship is a natural phenomenon that goes beyond just human tendency. Everywhere he ventures, Lestat and Claudia will be by his side to ride out the night until they must obey the rays of the sun and crawl back into the dank coffins from which they slumber.

It was as if the very air were perfumed and peculiar there, and I felt an extraordinary ease walking on those warm, flat pavements, under those familiar oaks, and listening to the ceaseless vibrant living sounds of the night.
— Anne Rice, Interview with the Vampire

Even after decades of living in New Orleans, Louis sees no immense change to the familiar sights and structures that he grew up admiring. In one of his descriptions of the city, Louis recalls the Garden District. Filled with mansions of all sizes and shapes, the district gives off this rich and luxurious oasis, distant yet connected to the heart of downtown NOLA. Every street that we walked on, we were greeted by these magnificent oak trees. The trees were nearly as tall as the mansions, with branches and limbs that could stretch across an entire intersection. These lengthy branches served a doubled-edged purpose: as communication lines, sending signals among the foliage on how to extract the most nutrients. Also, the limbs looked as if they were plotting on how to rip up the pavement and other man-made barriers. In the midst of these mega and mini mansions were two-story homes called double galleries. At this point, the French-Colonial theme has hit its highest stride: multiple columns on each floor, stacked onto each other in unison to showcase solidarity in the wake of the nature’s unkind shrubbery. This was a place where home dwellers could practice the exteriors of symmetry safely from the unknown and untouched green chaos that lay outside their doors. But in all honesty, I really did like these galleries as it made me appreciate the unique art styles in the cozy neighborhood that our group visited the day before: Treme.

Treme is one of those towns where people are enthusiastic about home design and, more importantly, expressing their self through that design. Gone were the lavish mansion-style homes and pompous two-story galleries; instead, we were welcomed by vibrant and colorful cottages and townhouses with the exception of a few shotgun houses to add some wild tunes to the scenery. Just to give a quick clarification on the differences, the cottages are smaller and usually just a single floor level. Townhouses, on the other hand, will typically be two stories high and are occasionally wrapped around by an ornate balcony. Shotgun houses, in contrast, are way tinier in square footage but do offer a sizable length, kind of like a loaf of bread. It was enlightening to be a part of these Creole roots, where people could live peacefully and express their chaotically beautiful minds on full display. Although they lacked freshly cut lawns, the individual looks of these homes more than compensated for this loss. Some boasted a purple haze coating, others a watermelon glaze. In comparison to the Garden District, we are again seeing the theme of unification, a different note is being played: unity through differentiation. Neighbors of all colors and backgrounds are coming together to bring something new to the band, and with each addition the artistic sound becomes richer and more whole.

This wood was repurposed from the devastation left by Hurricane Katrina.

There was no city in America like New Orleans. It was filled not only with the French and Spanish of all classes who had formed in part its peculiar aristocracy, but later with immigrants of all kinds, the Irish and German in particular.
— Anne Rice, Interview with the Vampire

During our brief stroll through Saint Louis Cemetery – No. 2 to be specific – I noticed that the names of the perished were not only names of French and Spanish descent. There were also Italian and German bones under the soil that I walked on. This speaks to Louis’s quote of the flooding of immigrants in the earlier days of New Orleans’s founding years. In the back of the cemetery were these massive mausoleum structures that stored dozens upon dozens of remains that belonged to a single guild, charity, and even a union workforce. One of these groups that caught my attention was the “Societee de Bienfaisance des Bouchers,” a society for butchers incorporated in 1867. Another community I found was “Cotton Yard Men,” incorporated in 1880. These men shared the same space just as they did in their former occupation but with their only means of company being the tall grass poking out of the red brick. Even if their souls did not find any loved ones or could not rest by the families they were born with, these men could depend on their secondary brothers to be there. This is the spirit of camaraderie at its best moments; through their involuntary connection with Lestat, Louis and Claudia form an unusual but necessary bond. In some ways, Louis is like a father to Claudia, guiding her on her vampiric transition with his possessed knowledge. While the years go by, their connection only grows stronger as their loved ones perish with their former lives. It is up to the next generation to tend to the needs of these graves, and the one after that.

 

Before going to the number 2, our original plan was to check out the St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Unfortunately, due to serious grave decay, this location was closed for repairs. This city has been dealt two lethal blows: first COVID, then Hurricane Ida. The financial burden now looms over the restless souls which remain under the tombstones.

As our group headed out, we came across a seasoned veteran of the area by the name of Victoria (Vicky). Vicky was a kind old lady who knew a thing or two about these streets and gave us context on the current situation with the Mardi Gras parades, particularly with the Second Line. This is a group dedicated to not just filling the NOLA streets with jazz, but also to provide financial support for the proper burying of loved ones. Along with providing charitable works, there are groups like the Money Wasters whose civic duty is to uphold the community and its vibrant culture. However, as explained by Vicky, some of these groups have fallen on their obligations to look after the member’s generational graves, resulting in decay, deterioration, and – in some cases – significant cracking. This should not be the case; the second generation must be there for their members or else risk losing a piece of their heritage. The names on the stones may age, but the love for the family – whether related or not – shall never falter. After we thanked and said our goodbyes to Vicky, we marched on in search of the next divine meal. I could hear the bass of my stomach getting louder, a rumbling which could only be calmed by the tastes and smells of NOLA’s finest Southern cooking.

 

The first of many dining experiences in the Big Easy started with the birthday of one of our own. To celebrate Key’s turning of twenty-three, we gathered at Evangeline, a Creole / Cajun restaurant with high-end fixings. When the gang and I arrived, the waitress moved us to the outside seating, where a long table awaited us. We took our chairs and our eyes were immediately glued onto the menu…or at least mine were. This establishment had all the Creole essentials, with some fine dining twists in the mix. Tonight was not the night to play it safe; it was time that I ventured out of my comfort zone and explored the lesser known aspects of the Creole cuisine underworld. To assist my palate was a French 75, a concoction of lemon juice and champagne with a hint of gin. The order went in as follows: fried okra, fried green tomatoes, and alligator Creole. Let’s talk about alligator meat. Have you ever eaten gator? Are you afraid of the texture? Well, I sure as heck was until the plate came over. On the bottom of the simmered gator bits were diced tomatoes, soaked in an acidic bath and fluffy white rice soaking in both the tomato and the tangy sauce. All these flavorful notes were in sync when I put that first spoonful to my mouth. The gator, to my surprise, had a chicken-like texture backed with the bite of a cow. Yes, it was like eating a juicy, fatty piece of steak but with less of the guilt. As I munched down on my prey, I slowly raised my glass in honor of the birthday celebration. Dessert was not out of the picture; the gang made an unanimous decision to order beignets – bread pudding style – as well as a brown butter sugar cake…don’t even get me started on this cake. It was like biting into a warm block of sugar with oozing brown sugar syrup dripping down it. The flavor was extremely rich but delightful. This event would go down in history as one of my most deliciously satisfying nights in the city. Little did I know this euphoric feeling would only last so long.

The next day, me and some of the gang ventured back into Frenchman Street, a vibrant destination for those who desire a little bit of live music and a little bit of fresh seafood. One of the restaurants we stopped at was this jazz & blues bar named 30/90 NOLA. 30/90 was the place to come after a long day of parading; live jazz music filled the atmosphere, washing over our fragile minds and persuading us to partake in a jig. In the back of the bar was where we sat, outside in the semi-cool shade. Our group was greeted by a caterer whose Instagram handle is ChefDJ504. The caterer did not bring us any hip-hop beats, but she sure did know how to whip up a mean crawfish boil. Did I mention that this was going to be my very first time eating crawfish? Along with the boil, we ordered an abundance of delicacies including jambalaya, po’boys, gumbo, boudin, mini muffulettas, and a lake’s worth of fresh oysters. The muffulettas had left much to desire as this wasn’t my first rodeo with iconic sandwich. This dish would not exist if it wasn’t for the early Italian immigrants who accepted and made this city their new home. As the dishes kept rotating in, my nasal passages picked up a salty, spicy, fish-like aroma originating from the caterer’s pot. The crawfish was ready to be devoured by hangry college students. The technique for consumption went like this: twist the head off and suck out the juices, followed up by the peeling of the shell and eating the delicate meat. At first bite, I was met with a vicious coughing brought on by the pungent spices. When the spices subsided, I licked my lips and took a deep breathe…absolute satisfaction. This was a common Creole dish fit for a poor king. I eventually got my fingers around one of the boudin balls which packed a savory salty crunch; boudin is a type of French blood sausage. It’s like they say, you can’t have proper Creole without the addition of a few French items. As I childishly played with the freshwater crustacean in my hand, A wonderful French phase kept repeating in my head: “Laissez les bon temps rouler” (let the good times roll). And the good times were indeed rolling, rolling me straight into a severe food coma. Thankfully, I had my hurricane drink to bring me back from the drowsy state. Rum, sugar, spices, seafood, and smiles all around. United, we took the menu by storm and made good on our promises to keep our stomachs from rumbling that day.

Digging into some boiled crawfish with the gang.

One of the last dining extravaganzas that I felt compelled to include on this blog was Thai night. Our group had grown weary of the Cajun spices and a needed a new flavor that could satisfy our cravings. The decision came down to a restaurant called Thaihey Nola. Inside, we befriended this very kind waitress who was bubbling with pure joy and laughter. If there was anyone who could reverse the mood of the most depressed being, it would be this lady. The night called for a Mai Tai; without this beverage in hand, I felt like a vampire trying to blend in during Mass. So, I stuck with the theme from the sip of my beverage to the last slurp of my soup. The table was littered with Thai classics like crispy tofu, crab fried rice, and Tom Yum Boran noodle soup. The tofu was seasoned with a Creole taste that burned so well on the rims of the mouth. In the soup were these generous clumps of spicy pork and scattered crushed peanuts. The routine for maximizing flavor intake was to chew, to slurp, and to crunch. While I was distracted by the Thai symphony, some Southern staples had invaded my territory and started to chime in loudly. The first of these invaders was the fried okra which was dusted with a Tom Yum sauce. To clarify for my foodie enthusiasts, Tom Yum refers to a hot and sour soup base found commonly in Thai cuisine. The second intruder was a little more thorough with its hiding technique: fried chicken bits that just came out of a spicy green curry shower. These comforting foods proved that fusion works under the right circumstances, and Thaihey has aced this concept with flying colors. The word camaraderie comes from the French term “camarade,” which means “friend” or “companion.” Sharing the dishes amongst ourselves worked yet again. If you seek to dine, dine in company and you will go far. Dine alone, and you may be robbing yourself of a lost opportunity for your taste buds. With our minds completely blown for the third consecutive night, we stumbled toward the door and into the humid streets of NOLA.

The Tom Yum Boran noodle soup, filled with juicy pieces of sausage and crisp green beans.

DAM if we do, DAM if we don't

〰️

DAM if we do, DAM if we don't 〰️

Just today, our group was blessed with an abrupt change of plans. Rather than watch the Divine Ladies, we had the pleasure of being a part of the Dignified Achievable Men (DAM) Social & Pleasure Club (SAPC). It was an electrical experience, walking with the crowd and the group members. The musicians fired off their worn-down tubas and the sea of people followed. Some of those in the crowd added improvised instruments into the jam session. A couple of floats passed by, carrying true patriots of the Second Line. At the conclusion of our march down Claiborne Avenue, I was sweating and shaking not just from the heat but also from the sheer thrill of this event. These SAPC’s embodied the energy of the community perfectly, and I was truly honored to be a part of that sea of ecstasy even if just for a brief march.

The band’s march comes to a satisfying conclusion.

If you don’t shake, don’t get no cake.
— Michael Ondaatje, Coming Through Slaughter

After going through our vampire phase, we transitioned to Michael Ondaatje’s Coming Through Slaughter. The book focuses on the life of one of the greatest jazz musicians ever to live, Buddy Bolden. The story takes us through Storyville, a red-light district that was notorious for its prostitutes up until 1917. With most of the buildings destroyed, all that remain are housing projects and apartment complexes. During this time, Bolden played a heavy hand in the early developments of the jazz genre. On a Saturday afternoon, me and the gang went to Preservation Hall, a music venue that has stood in place since the 1960s. This was another magical destination for feeling the wild rhythms of jazz. Once inside, we congregated at the very back of the room where we stood with unwavering anticipation. The band slowly creeped onto stage and resumed their seats. In the blink of an eye, a saxophone cried out for attention. Next came the soothing melodies of the flute. The drums and the piano were also feeling vigorous that day. Each instrument could drift off from the beaten path of the band’s melody and come back without disrupting the flow. At times of passion, the band members individually stood up and expressed their identity through their own divine tune. This fragmented play style mimics the uncontrollable mental state of Bolden throughout Ondaatje’s book. Diagnosed with schizophrenia, Bolden had an extremely difficult time reading off of sheet music. And yet, this man knew how to tame a cornet to fit his vivid imagination. It was hard for me not to get into a shaking rhythm when the jazz notes were filling up at Preservation Hall. Divided, these band members played very well; but united, they channeled the very essence of jazz’s roots.

New Orleans is the place to both lose and find yourself. Are you a nocturnal beast with no eating preference, hell-bent on slurping up daquiris until 4am? Are you the foodie connoisseur who avoids sketchy establishments and makes it their lifelong mission to try every item on the menu regardless of what your friends say? Or are you both? Whichever identity you decide to masquerade as, just know that NOLA will still welcome you with open arms and tables.

A Time to Remember, A Time to Rebuild

On a Saturday evening, I arrived in Louis Armstrong International Airport to begin my Maymester journey that spanned across various regions of Louisiana, the first of them being a charming little island called Grand Isle. My stomach was running on fumes and the jet lag had not yet set in. The first of my meals comprised of an unhealthy dose of fried chicken nuggets, mini beignets injected with artificial raspberry flavoring, and leftover French fries that deserved a better fate than my grumbling stomach. The food was far below expectations, but still, it had a story to tell. The meal was courtesy of the beloved Louisiana fast-food chain Popeyes. This restaurant – and many others – worked off an 8pm closing deadline. By removing the graveyard shift mentality, employees are given the flexibility they need to return to their dwellings and rest after a monotonous day’s work. This theme of relaxation continued to play its tune for the remainder of our time on Grand Isle.

He was spending his summer vacation, as he always did, with his mother at Grand Isle…‘the house’ had been a summer luxury of the Lebruns…it enabled Madame Lebrun to maintain the easy and comfortable existence which appeared to be her birthright.
— Kate Chopin, The Awakening

One of the first books of our bookpacking journey was Kate Chopin’s The Awakening. The story begins and ends with a Creole woman and wife by the name of Edna Pontellier. She and her husband, Leonce Pontellier, live with their children on Grand Isle, a small island located West of the Mississippi Delta. It’s the 1890s, Industrialization has made its impact on the traveling lifestyle of Louisiana’s inhabitants. Those who had the jobs had the stable wages, which enabled the emergence of a vacationing era where one could afford the luxury of nearby travel to not-so-distant places. For the Lebruns, the vacation home was a gateway to comfortable living. It signified the easy-going, carefree state of the Creole population which is still very much alive today. And what do we mean by Creole? This term has an endless number of definitions, but for now we will condense it to fit the mixing of the French and Spanish.

Chairs that scream “sit on me!”

The water of the Gulf stretched out before her, gleaming with the million lights of the sun. The voice of the sea is seductive, never ceasing, whispering, clamoring, murmuring, inviting the soul to wander in abysses of solitude.
— Kate Chopin, The Awakening

When we arrived at the house, I was welcomed by several reclining chairs overlooking the emerald ocean. In the distance I could make out several shrimping vessels, eagerly awaiting their next catch of shrimp. The interior of the house was nearly all wood, giving off a warm cabin-like essence. As I made my way to the ocean, there were these rows of houses with the similar architecture: large wooden beams on the bottom for support and slanted rooftops – sometimes accompanied by a much smaller roof piece. In the gulf were these rock formations which acted as levies to protect the homes from elevated water levels. While dipping my feet in, I could feel a weight lifting off my shoulders; the burdens of life were briefly put on hold. With the humid air gently rolling over my face, it was almost like I was in a trance. Like Edna, my soul belonged to the will of the nature’s currents. The only thought that could invade my clear mind was what was on the menu for that evening. In keeping with local cuisine, my taste buds were ill-prepared for what was to come.

This island, while small, still had much to offer in the form of deep-South cuisine. My first delicious encounter with the local diet was at a low-key gas station called Jo-Bob’s Gas & Grill. Jo-Bob’s had your local liquor-store essentials, from the go-to six pack of Purple Haze beer to your dependable bag of Zapp’s potato chips (I decided to get the Voodoo flavor and planned to eat these guys on the road back to New Orleans). But the real treasure I was after was at the food counter. In the back, Jo-Bob’s was equipped with simple, classic Southern dishes like po’boys, biscuits, and jambalaya. My heart longed only for the jambalaya, a rice-based concoction seasoned with meats and vegetables. Jambalaya can either be “wet” or “dry,” but this one appeared to be on the dry side. Also, this jambalaya only contained three ingredients: rice, sausage, and chicken. It wasn’t trying to flatter the customer with some fancy presentation; it was there to satisfy their soul…and it did just that. Along with the jambalaya came a buttery biscuit and meat pie (the contents of which my tongue still tries to decipher as I write these words). This was a dependable meal; no change of the weather could bring this dish out of season.

On Sunday evening, our group was given a much deeper dive into the rich seafood delicacy that this beautiful island had to offer. When we arrived at Starfish Restaurant, there didn’t appear to be a single table left for us to claim, and this was a good sign. While waiting, I quietly observed the dishes that the customers were feasting on. The po’boy was the main star of this establishment, and I would not rest until my hands had gotten a hold of one. With the waitress by my side, I placed the order as follows: a fish po’boy with a basket full of fried okra nuggets. Okra holds a special place in my heart; it’s a green seed-pod vegetable that – in its raw and natural form – almost looks like a pepper, but don’t be fooled! It does not carry any sort of spice. One nugget at a time, I felt my body dissolving into the chair. A salty, slimy, murky texture reminiscent of the wetlands that surrounded Grand Isle. My daily salt intake was reaching critical levels, and yet I still munched on.

Unfortunately, there were no green salads in sight, so the okra would have to suffice.

The waitress delivered the po’boy in two halves, one for gazing at and one to firmly grasp. I quickly analyzed it: fully dressed with diced tomatoes, shredded lettuce, and a thin spread of mayonnaise (or could the chef have made the delicious mistake of adding butter? My taste buds said yes). After taking a couple bites, there was this sense of awakening in me; fresh, fried white fish that slowly melted on the tongue. I wasn’t entirely sure about the fish type, but my gut was telling me it was catfish. It was at this moment I knew what a po’boy should represent: a harmony between healthy and unhealthy, combining the best ingredients that both the sea and land could offer. With just a dash of seasoning, the most impoverished of cuisines can become a spectacle to the lips. This dish showcased the pride of the island’s Creole population on full display. In comparison to Jo-Bob’s cuisine, the food did was not meant to be elegant but to be a sufficient and sustainable meal for the blue-collar folk of this land. There was no “fishy” taste afterwards; with the plate empty, only my grand smile remained. To wash down this smorgasbord of fried nourishment, our group was treated to a few puffy beignets. Generously powdered with sugar, the beignets were the final catalyst to my emerging coma-like state. Through experiencing the local cuisine, we collectively learned that fried food was the customary diet (although grilled options were available upon request). It was like we were at a banquet, and we were the honored guests of this island. After paying our respects and appetites to Starfish Restaurant, we returned home to lazily continue our relaxation. A time for remembering the important obligations of life would have to wait until the next day.

A woman who would give her life for her children could do no more than that – your Bible tells you so.
— Kate Chopin, The Awakening

The warm and calming emotions brought on by the sea was placed with a gloomy sense of solitude. Around Monday evening, the gang and I took a stroll through Grand Isle Cemetery. In my few experiences with cemeteries, never have I seen one adjacent to a kid’s playground. Was it meant to distract the kids during funerals, or was this placed here to remind us of our earlier days? In The Awakening, Edna discusses with Adele Ratignolle about giving up the “nonessential.” Edna’s wealth, children, and husband are all things that Edna believes should not have a hold on her individual being. On the other hand, Madame Ratignolle, a Creole from New Orleans, believes that the wife should sacrifice herself for her family. This heated debate speaks to the Creole culture of keeping close family ties, even through death. For Edna, this presents a conflicting issue as she is married to a Presbyterian but has a father who is Catholic. At the cemetery, we could observe Edna’s deep Catholic ties through the burials known as mausoleum crypts. These crypts were above ground not for the purpose of addressing the risks of hurricane weather but could nevertheless serve this purpose. Rather, this design was based in Catholic roots; the bones of numerous generations of a family line, all packed into a single crypt. One other thing that I picked up on were these common surnames: Bradberry, Terrebone, and Landry. Some of these family names are the lasting remnants of French origin from this island.

I found the name Terrebone at a café in the town of Houma, further illustrating the grasp of French influence across Louisiana natives. For my French enthusiasts out there, the name translates to “good land”.

Si tu savais

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Si tu savais 〰️

One of the French phrases that Edna relays to the audience is “si tu savais” (If only you knew). While this phrase will be taken out of context, I want to apply it to the current living situation of Grand Isle. In the late summer of 2021, Ida – a Category 4 hurricane – made landfall over Louisiana. To put this in perspective, Louisiana had never seen such an impactful geological disaster since Hurricane Katrina back in 2005. Grand Isle was not spared by Ida; debris littered the beaches, the walls on the houses torn clean off. At every turn, it seemed that there was no definite conclusion to this weather cycle of suffering. And yet, as I walked down the long road stretches, I saw wall posts and lawn signs signaling a different story: a road to recovery. It was like each advertisement was a helping hand to the cause: one being roof repair, another debris removal, another for reconstruction efforts, and another for demolition and home remodeling. If there is one takeaway I got from The Awakening, it’s that nature is an immeasurable power that can impact human lives in ways that we can’t quite comprehend. On our last day on Grand Isle, I saw a banner on one of the houses with the hashtag “grandislestrong.” This community is filled with a lively and resilient Creole community, and I am hoping that I get the chance to come back and see if they restore Grand Isle to its full glory.