Just outside New Orleans School of Cooking
Ever since the first group meeting with the New Orleans book-packing class, the experience I was most excited about was the day at the New Orleans School of Cooking. As soon as we walk into the little shop on the first floor, I am greeted by the bright colors of spices and cute aprons. It feels homey. Cooking is one of the best ways of connecting with different cultures. In Chef Maria V.’s words, food is a universal language, just like music. Having watched my grandmother and mother cook Armenian food since I was a toddler, I have found that cooking has the unique characteristic of pulling conversations out of people. Conversations of curiosity. Conversations of understanding. Conversations of perspective.
After 10 minutes of browsing through the store, we were guided up to the kitchen by Chef Maria V. She is such a character. After her little introductory speech, I am engulfed by intrigue. She explains the differences between Cajun and Creole food and the history of the influences of other cultures. Knowing the historical background of Creole and Cajun people from Andrew’s lectures and looking at the same history through the lens of culture and food is just fascinating. Even though Maria has been through a lot, having lost her restaurant to Hurricane Katrina amongst other struggles, she exudes so much positivity that is characteristic of the vibrant city. It is clear that food has helped her overcome the complexities of life. So fitting to the power of culture.
The Corn and Crab Bisque we made at the cooking school
We begin the class with a Crab and Corn Bisque, a staple in New Orleans food. She starts with butter. A LOT of butter. More butter than I have seen be used in cooking all my life. Slowly adding all the ingredients, I felt like I was in a scene of the animated film Ratatouille. We were combining so many different elements in a large pot. I expected a good flavor but I was not prepared for the depth of flavor. It was like a successful harmony of chaos, which reminds me of so many aspects of the city. First, Jazz. Just like the cooking in New Orleans, jazz is a combination of different sounds, different instruments, at different times, in different tempos. But it always all somehow marries into a beautiful unified chaos. Second, the fusion of dark and light elements of the city. The Cathedral near the voodoo museums and shops. The ghosts supposedly flying by. Psychic readings all around. All in one city.
Having finished eating the Corn and Crab Bisque, we moved on to Jambalaya. Another fusion of so many different elements that marinate so beautifully together. It was amazing. Topping this experience off with the best banana foster I had in my life, I was delighted with the day.
Daniela absolutely mesmerized by the banana foster she made
Leaving the school feeling as stuffed as possible, a couple of us decided to walk the weight off. :) Walking through the French Quarter now is a very different experience than was at the beginning of our trip. I’m cherishing every moment. I’m noticing every corner, every eccentricity, every new tourist. I am filled with overwhelming gratitude for my time in New Orleans. As much as I am very ready to go home to my family, I will miss this strange little city. Most of all, I’ll miss the people. The locals who would complement my outfits. The elderly members of Tom’s Fiddle and Bow shop who made me feel like I gained 10 more grandparents. The Preservation Hall performers that became my friends unbeknownst to them. I’ll miss them all.
As we walk around the strip of shops, we notice a store that looks more unique than anything I have seen here. Papier Plume. We walk in and I am greeted by a welcoming sense of vintage charm. Wax stamp kits that looked … historic. Calligraphy pens and stands so meticulously crafted that seemed to awaken the undiscovered artist in oneself. I started speaking with the worker at the front desk. It turns out that these pieces were hand-crafted by a small business based in France that has been around for more than 20 years. Their story charmed me. I would buy half the store if I could. I looked around and inspected each piece closely. I felt like I could imagine the stories behind each piece. A bunch of locals in France, using art to spread joy. Wow, another statement that seems to apply to so many aspects of New Orleans and Louisiana, namely jazz. I ended up buying a calligraphy set for my cousin and I felt very happy.
“...he is baffled by the kindliness and sincerity of the town folk.”
My best attempt at chefing it up next to the master of cooking
Slowly having more time to myself as we get close to the end, I miss my family. I think this is what I mostly think about these last few days. But I’m trying to detach myself from this feeling to take in the city one last time. I will remember the authenticity I experienced in Louisiana for the rest of my life. Louisiana brought out my most genuine self and I am more grateful than anything for that. This place also brought out my love for nature. I don’t think I have ever seen a natural green as bright as is painted all over Lousiana nature. It almost seems fake. It is so enriching and relaxing.
Oh the live oaks. I have a special connection to these trees. They are incredibly expansive and take over every corner and crevice of Louisiana. They speak to my soul. They are rich. They are strong. They are resilient. The more I reflect the more I realize that these one-of-a-kind trees are representative of the resilience of the people in this place. The people who lost the businesses they had built for most of their lives to the hurricane. The low-income locals who had to leave their homes and communities behind forever. The black communities that were subjected to unimaginable suffering and trauma through slavery. The stories of resilience define Louisiana.
“For he is no more aware of the mystery which surrounds him than a fish is aware of the water it swims in.”