Relating Dickens World to Ours

Dickens is well-known for his lengthy descriptions and ability to evoke a “vibe” within all of his scenes. Also, as a reader, I feel that there is always the input of one’s personal imagination when it comes to world building. The combination of Dickens description and my own image culminated into something that was somewhat .. different from the London we saw. I feel like since so much of London has been changed, modernized, and diversified, it was hard to picture exactly what Dickens was describing by just seeing the places.

For example, I imagined Tellson’s Bank would be a small space in the second story of a building rather than in the arch that we found. This was not a bad thing as I felt I was further understanding Dicken's description after seeing it in person. I loved seeing Soho Square but I felt the Manettes were a little distant without seeing the inside of their house which was what felt more accessible to me as a setting when I was reading the book.

BUT

There were exceptions. The places that stuck out to me most in correlation to the novel were those that felt the most unchanged or unaffected.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese was one of these places. As I sat there I felt exactly what it would have been like when Charles Darnay was sitting there with Carton discussing the meaning of their lives. I also in turn felt the presence of Dickens and how he would have frequented the place. The older wooden structures and the gold printed manuscript with the name of the pub written all transported me to the time of the novel or of Dickens. I could imagine sitting there at night talking with friends about personal turmoils with just the candlelight to see. I understood why that was where Dickens had chosen to take Darnay after he was acquitted and how it represented that 18th century feeling.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese was one of these places. As I sat there I felt exactly what it would have been like when Charles Darnay was sitting there with Carton discussing the meaning of their lives. I also in turn felt the presence of Dickens and how he would have frequented the place. The older wooden structures and the gold printed manuscript with the name of the pub written all transported me to the time of the novel or of Dickens. I could imagine sitting there at night talking with friends about personal turmoils with just the candlelight to see. I understood why that was where Dickens had chosen to take Darnay after he was acquitted and how it represented that 18th century feeling.

The other places that I felt most connected to the characters in the novel was the house that showed rooms from the 18th and 19th century as if the family had just left. This experience was wildly gratifying and solidified the homespaces that I was imagining. Also, the type of imagination that we were required to use in this place felt very similar to the kind we should be using for bookpacking in general. Seeing things as they are and imagining that the characters or Dickens were just there. I really appreciated how each room was littered with smells and dishes and paintings that would have found their way into these people’s homes. One of the rooms even felt like Lucie could have decorated it. (Disclaimer: these pictures were found on the internet for the interior, I did not take pictures inside)

The images in the iPad that were shown to us in each specific place gave me a better way to relate my reading. In nearly every spot, we were shown an image or drawing of what the place had looked like before. I found the drawings to pull out the scenery from the novel better than the live scenery around us.

Dickens himself was someone that we were trying to pin down the presence of while in London. Visiting his house gave us this feeling since we saw his writing and where he used to live and work. I enjoyed seeing that he actually owned Hogarth’s drawings and looking through his various items. Another place that I felt a connection to dickens was the bookstore with the first edition Dickens novels. Seeing A Tale of Two Cities in the first edition displayed the time that the book was written with its leather binding and yellowed pages. I found that these excursions gave me a good sense of who Dickens was.

The challenge of Bookpacking is finding how to take the imaginary world that you have created with the writer and connecting it to the actual city around you. It was definitely more of a challenge at the beginning, but I have found my way into not solidifying the fictional world until I’ve seen the real life representation. Seeing these places in person has definitely supplemented my imagination and given me a more accurate portrayal of everything Dickens was describing.

Connecting with Dickens' London, Initial Thoughts on Bookpacking

Week One of Bookpacking London is complete and I can’t believe the amount of stuff we did last week! Although I didn’t have many concrete expectations entering the experience, week one was still pretty different than I had imagined.

My photo of Dickens’ grave, captured with as few people standing in the frame as possible.

First, what is bookpacking? Throughout the last few months, I was asked this countless times by family and friends. I would always give this standard answer: we’re exploring the cities through the lens of the novel. We will be walking the streets the author and characters walked. I imagined standing in a spot, absorbing the sites, and being able to feel a connection with Dickens’s London.

It didn’t quite go like that. Days 1 & 2 were blisteringly hot: record temperatures for the UK. And while we did come to London to see the history, we weren’t there to see history in the making. The heat proved a distraction from the Bookpacking as it fried the metal image I had of gloomy, overcast London right out of my head. 

There’s obviously no way to truly replicate the settings of the novel A Tale of Two Cities, but it became much more difficult to approximate than I had hoped. Not only were there throngs of people everywhere, locals and tourists alike, but also a multitude of cars, buses, signs, lights, and advertisements that all made it hard to see back into the London of our novel. Although the lovely buildings and architecture were well-preserved in the last 200 years at least, they were hard for me to connect to as anything more than buildings.

So it’s the end of Week one and I admit, I have found it hard to connect to the historical sites as we have been walking around. I really like ATTC but I’m lacking a sense of interaction with it and the past during our afternoon literary walks. 

However, two experiences did stand out to me in the way they brought the past into the present. The first was in Jarndyce, the antiquarian bookshop where we saw Dickens’s handwriting for the first time. Although we were just looking at a messy letter, the entire class had a moment of, “whoa, that’s cool” when we saw his signature. Being able to see a piece of Dickens The Human as he lived, not just the streets he walked, helped me appreciate and tap into his writing as art and not just a product of the historical period. 

The letter from Dickens which had us low key oo-ing and ah-ing.

Second, the Severs’ House. The Severs’ house is basically an attempt to capture the life of an 18th/19th century family through the scents, visuals, sounds, and objects of their house. It was so dark and every single thing inside looked like it had rolled right out of a fictional novel, but I guess that’s the point! While Dickens may not have lived in that atmosphere, his characters did, and it made it much easier to consider- how did someone writing or living at this time imagine the world around them? On the top floor, there was a pocket bible open to “Evening Prayer” on a lady’s dressing table. A pair of earrings are placed on top. I can just imagine her saying her prayers as she got ready for bed. Such a deeply intimate glimpse inside the home, and inside the mind of a person of the past! What sort of lessons was she pondering? What values did she hold?

These two experiences were the most engaging, wow-it’s-like-we’re-there moments for me. 

Contrary to when we were seeing the buildings and streets significant to the novel, it felt really personal to glimpse at the real lives behind the fiction. It made me realize that despite how the landscape has changed since the 1800s, people have changed relatively little. So I think I will shift my approach towards bookpacking in the coming weeks- rather than looking at Paris and hoping the buildings reveal more insights about the novels to me, I want to see what I can learn through a more human-centric lens.

What personal insights can I draw from the bookpacking experience when I consider the authors’ and characters’ experiences, hopes, disappointments, and especially fears when seeing the sites?

How's it going mate? Is London giving?

First, let’s get that hard stuff out the way. Monday and Tuesday were probably the most brutal days. We were just beginning and the temps were at a record-breaking high of 104. Between the heat, walking five miles a day, and the time change, it was extremely tiring. However, now reflecting on the week, things have gotten better. I believe we are all getting more comfortable being around each other and learning to go with the flow.

As I began this journey to bookpacking, I had little knowledge other than the basics of the history of the UK. Visiting Westminster Abbey brought up a different series of emotions for me. On one hand, I was amazed to literally walk through historic time periods but what came along with that was feelings of frustration and sorrow. With respect to history, I was upset that there is an entire industry catering to profiting off of the deceased. It felt invasive as people, myself included, walked over such prominent figures' burials. I instantly went into a spiral about capitalism but I digress. In contrast, seeing Rudyard Kipling, Sir Isaac Newton, and Charles Dickens invoked a sense of Joy and respect. It was a holy experience. Furthermore, the architecture was beyond beautiful. The intricate designs throughout the entire church were terrific. It is shocking to see how skillful these artists/designers were between the 13th and 16th centuries. To see that Gothicness up close and personal paired with the religious setting takes one on a journey back into time. I wanted to know more about its design, the amount of time it took to build, and what sophisticated techniques were used.

Continuing our tour to Jarndyce, I felt a spark of living rise as I flipped through the pages of books from centuries ago. This is the first time I felt a connection to the past. This was the first time I personally was able to bridge the gap between history and the present within the subject of literature in tangible means. I gained a newfound sense of empathy toward novelists. To be able to see firsthand Cruishank’s —a prominent figure within the art scene in London whose works were commissioned by other great authors — designs in Dickens' book was amazing. It was like each book was a mini magazine. I loved the comparison Andrew made in terms of how novels were like gossip back in the old days. One can almost compare the release of the novels to social media outlets such as Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook to name a few. Whatever a person's niche is on social media they are waiting for that next post. Another example could be the true-crime podcast or conspiracy theories. It is always so intriguing to come up with new theories or predict what comes next in a show. The anticipation that arises from experiences like so is similar to those of readers of Dickens and other great novelists. Furthermore, I was able to tap into the brain of a book conservator, something I’d never done before. It was so interesting to hear Josh passionately describe the conservator business. Not only are these books truly a piece of history but the work that goes into restoring them down to the intricate detail is just amazing.

As I watched Les Miserables the musical, I began to have much more appreciation for the novel, especially Hugo’s extended descriptions. Because so much was left Out, I felt that If I did not read the book, I would have had an extremely hard time following. Eponine and the Thenadiers’ were the best in my opinion. They had me full of emotions ranging from laughter to sorrow. ( Poor Eponine!) I’ve only seen a handful of musicals but after attending this one I have gained a new level of respect for the art of theater.

The house of Dennis Severs’ had to be the best excursion of the week for me! It felt very magical! Severs’ goal of the house being depicted as a still life definitely hits the mark. The entire experience was methodological in the best way possible. Having to remain silent throughout the entire tour allowed one’s mind to focus on the picture he painted with the design of his home. The Severs’ house required us to use every sense besides taste and it was amazing. It was a truly immersive experience. The various rooms reveal the contrast of personalities within the household based on layout, smells, sound, etc. I compared the soft music playing to Charles Dickens' use of auditory descriptions. The tobacco room was confined with the smell of cedar, whiskey, and musk. It candidly paints the portrait of a luxurious mantuary. While the drawing room was a point of focus and clarity. Everything had to be meticulously symmetrical. It was dainty and victorian. 

As this week comes to an end, I wish to pause and reflect with my peers. I would love to hear everyone’s perspective. Overall, I enjoyed London. It is definitely giving! The city is rich in history from all backgrounds, people, and perspectives. The fashion and museums are amazing.

When in London One Must Remain Pensive

My first week on this Bookpacking adventure has been filled with rich explorations and excursions into various territories in London. This is my first study abroad experience and so I did not know what to expect. Being able to get a tour of different parts of London has exposed me to areas and regions that I otherwise would not have discovered by myself. I have been finding it quite cool to be able to explore various parts of the city. I was talking to a friend about my experience in London and they asked me a question I found quite striking. “Does the city feel old-timey?” Now I have spent a good portion of my time strolling around the city and marveling at the different buildings. For sure, I noticed that they have a different look and feel than most cities in America. In particular, it is quite fascinating how well they have been able to preserve historic buildings. In America, historic buildings are much fewer and are almost bubbled away from the rest of the city. They stand out as these landmarks to tour and visit. However, in London, the mix of the old and new is so interconnected. It is not uncommon to see more historic buildings juxtaposed with the uber-modern buildings of the city. And so, when faced with the question of does the city feel old-timey, I must pause and reflect. In a sense, yes. Especially, from my perspective as an American, the city does have an old-timey feel. And yet, the juxtaposition of all of these modern buildings stops the city from feeling antiquated. It is a rather interesting mix this city has. While I love being in this new city, I am starting to feel some of the perplexing emotions that come with traveling. On one end, I’m in London! I should absolutely love it. Yet, I learned that the word “should” is the enemy of the present and often compounds onto whatever suffering or difficulties you may be feeling at the moment. While it is such a gift to be able to explore the city of London. There is also a feeling of being upended that comes with the territory of traveling. While, I don’t feel like my world has been shaken in any way that is significant, there is still the acknowledgement that I am somewhere different. And with this acknowledgement comes a slight feeling of unsettlement. As I come to travel more, I recognize this feeling more. It last briefly and slowly falls to the wayside as you become acclimated to your new environment. Nonetheless, by virtue of being in a different area, there is a subtle feeling of unsettlement that makes me long for the familiar. I long for my family and the comforts of my home, and yet I don’t want to act on this feeling and leave the environment that is causing me this discomfort. Perhaps this is the plight of any traveler. Lastly, being in the UK in general is an interesting experience for me as Ghanian-Gambian. I am from two West African countries, both of which have a long history of colonial rule by the British. As someone who has recently visited Ghana this summer, I reflect on my past travel experience and apply it in tandem to my current travel experience. Ghana is truly a beautiful country with so much vibrancy and life inside of it. And yet, while I was there I couldn’t help but reflect on the poverty I was seeing on a daily basis. It made me reflect on ideals I’ve always held and I came to the realization that poverty is not the natural state of man. It a deliberately manufactured product of the elite onto the rest of society. Coming to Britain, I see the kind of luxuries that this country has as a result of the oppression and exploitation of my people. And so, it is an interesting dichotomy that both angering and resentful. Moreover, as I reflect on Charles Dickens and a Tale of Two Cities, I find that the suffering that is of the time period is not far removed from the kind of suffering that the majority of the world, outside of imperial countries, still deal with. Many of the seemingly American concepts such as the American Dream have roots in Charles Dicken’s writing. This idea of self-help which places the onus of poverty on the individual rather than the societal system is one that is still prevalent, but I find to be deeply and inherently flawed. The only reason that Britain is seen today as a top world power is because of their violent exploitation of Africa and Asia. Overall, I found my experience in London to be a truly fascinating adventure. The ability to explore and marvel at the different areas and parts of the city has been a treat. And yet, as I embark on sightseeing, I cannot help but be reflective of my own life experiences, principles, and concepts I discuss in class. At times, grappling with all of these reflections can be rather burdensome. However, this is only when I cannot arrive at a resolution to my own questions that I see just. However, I have been learning how be okay and even revel in a state of irresolution. In doing this has provided me with much comfort.

Storytelling Through Architecture

A Diverse Arrangement

In exploring London, I found that there were a large variety of buildings and architecture styles. There are gothic churches, Victorian arcades, and hypermodern skyscrapers. The buildings date from the 17th century to today and yet each one adds to a unified expression: Britishness. The careful detailing of each doorway and rooftop is something to be marveled at. The city seems to tell a story and Dickens’s A Tale of Two Cities fits right into it. “It was the best of times. It was the worst of times.” These famous words can be applied to any era yet they particularly fit the three settings we are presented with. By looking at London in three stages, the story unfolds.

A main theme of the story is Britishness and how it has developed into the modern age. Dickens describes his interpretation of Britishness through his first few chapters and characters like Ms. Pross. It is surrounded by an air of old-fashionedness, poshness, exclusivity, and arrogance. I felt that this was heavily displayed by all of the ornate and fancy architecture in London.

Georgian Age - Setting of the Novel - 1775 to 1793

We explored first the main gothic architectures that remained in London. Stained glass, pointed arches, and flying butresses were featured in buildings like Westminster Abbey. The lengthy amount of time that it took to build this church and its prestigious style that almost demand you stare at it in awe were of a very British Nature. This style of architecture came from before the time period, but was still something revered in Britain. This is apparent since the abbey had been rebuilt many times since its construction in 1267 and maintained the style. 

St. Pauls Cathedral was an example of more baroque structure that still was quite beautiful and grand. 

If we look at the history of the times in which this architecture was built, it is primarily represented by the monarchy and feudalistic society. The money for these detailed structures came from the wealthiest on the feudalistic stack and often those at the bottom were exploited for their work. The Legend of Robin Hood was of this time because it was considered very valuable to steal from the rich and give to the poor. Yet things must have been well enough, because there was no revolt during this time. The first instance of “revolution” in Britain came with Charles I who was then excecuted and the power shifted to the parliament. Continuing on the revolts were subdued as the power did not lie with the monarchy. 

Victorian Age - Dickens Setting - 1837 to 1901 (1859)

From the 18th century to the later parts of the 19th century, Gothic architecture was still high in demand. This period was known as Gothic revival since the time period had passed yet the style was maintained. This exemplifies the old-fashionedness and desire for the more expensive, intricate things that makes up the British culture. The Tower Bridge and Royal Courts of Justice were great examples of how the British wanted to mimic the old style rather than move into a modern age. 

The newer style that emerged within this era was the Victorian style. I is exemplified by the iron railings, ornate gables, and use of different shapes. This style is still rather extravagant and it was featured in several of the arcades we walked through. Several parts of London still have the Victorian age buildings which mesh well with the city. 

The beginning of this era was marked by the industrial revolution which allowed things to be developed much quicker in factories. I found the newer Victorian architecture to be not quite as intricate or time-intensive as the Gothic while still maintaining a sense of grandeur.

Modern Age - Our Current Setting - 2022

Modern architecture in London was just so unique. I’ve been to many big cities and seen my fair share of skyscrapers but each modern building in London was unlike anything I’d seen before. That is the point. It is how they continue the Britishness into the modern age. We find the buildings to be so spectacular even if it’s in an odd way that they do entrap our attention. They cannot be normal tall buildings, but rather should be artistic, different, refined, and therefore British. And even so, there are definitely those that reject the new age and prefer the old-fashioned Victorian and Gothic styles.

The developments from the Victorian age to the present have been vast. England now functions democratically and the monarchy has no real say in the government. The working class and women have the right to vote and a large variety of culture has flooded London. I feel like the shift into the glass buildings that populate the city today contrasted with how ornate things used to be shows through architecture just how much the society has progressed. Not to sound Whigish, as I know there is still work to be done and changes to be made.

Yet I do feel that all three of these eras combine together in an ensemble that fully encompasses London with all of its history and puts it on display to be seen. Walking around and seeing the little blue signs that revealed what a building or area used to be or who used to live there gave me a way to look into the past. I could see the square that Charles Dickens walked in, the crampedness of Tellson’s bank or Darnay being held on trial. And though much of it has changed and is constantly developing, I know that it will maintain its roots because of its Britishness which is something I have come to admire. The old-fashionedness gives a respect to the past of the city and keeps it alive. The arrogance and grandeur have made every building into a spectacle. London has become a city that represents its nation through the ages, with its scars, and ultimately symbolizes British culture.

The Typical Londoner

My four-week adventure across Europe, and first foray out of the United States, has finally begun. After overcoming my traveler’s anxiety and a ten-and-a-half-hour flight, I found myself meandering through the Underground admiring its ease of access, convenience, and relative safety. While excited to see the sights and sounds of London, I had no real semblance of what the week ahead of me would look like, and looked forward to my next week of exploration.

“the horror of being ogled through the windows, by the heads exposed on Temple Bar with an insensate brutality and ferocity worthy of Abyssinia or Ashantee.””

— A Tale of Two Cities

The first couple of days in London was uncomfortable for many reasons other than the record-breaking heat, but for the look inside the political and legal centers. Both of these explorations offered an amazing introduction to London’s rich history, from the iconic Big Ben to the beautiful interior of Westminster Abbey. While enjoying these incredible sights, I was constantly reminded of the dark premise upon which many of these incredible structures were founded. Reading about the brutal imperialism that characterized Britain for centuries has always been interesting yet disturbing. However, reading about the heads of convicts openly displayed on Temple Bar described in A Tale of Two Cities was an entirely different experience. These heads hung right near Tellson’s Bank, were symbols of the control the government held over the people and their ability, more importantly, their willingness to execute their citizens for counts of petty crime. Before me were Buckingham Palace, the Palace of Westminster, and the Royal Courts of Justice; all physical manifestations of this immense power the British government possessed. Suddenly, these centers of social, political, and royal power were no longer vague concepts I was just reading about, but the storied landmarks from which the Empire was ruled for centuries. Nevertheless, these wonderful structures were a sight to behold, yet I was left pondering both the positive and the negative influence this city has had across the globe.

A particularly interesting story presented itself in the character of Ms. Pross, the caretaker of Lucie. She is the epitome of British properness in that she highly values respect, order, and conservatism in many ways. This type of image perpetuates the “British stereotype” that exists back in America, an image of an uptight British man/woman who is stuck in their ways is what comes to mind personally. Visiting places like Borough Market and Brick Lane this past week has completely shattered this stereotype and forced me to rethink what I and many other Americans view as “the British way” that Ms. Pross exudes. The incredible amount of diversity in culture, language, and fashion took me by surprise everywhere I went. I constantly found myself appreciating the welcomed chaos of the Tube stations, while also noticing the seemingly orderly system of jaywalking Londoners seem to have. Even stumbling across unexpected events, such as the festival in Aldgate Square celebrating Latino culture transported me back home and connected my culture with London in a way I never anticipated. Witnessing these wonderful shows of community, and cultural appreciation completely contradicts my stereotype of a typical Brit, one that was reinforced in A Tale of Two Cities, and reshaped my image of a typical Londoner. Rather, I realized that there is no “typical Londoner” as the people are much too diverse to be boxed into such a category, and exploring the simple facets of social life throughout the city revealed just this.

A small glimpse inside the world of Jarndyce!

Along the thread of being immersed in history through literature, our visit to Jarndyce Antiquarian Booksellers was uniquely powerful. For the duration of this trip, I have largely been relying on ebooks to read our selected texts. While functional, a considerable amount of the reading experienced is lost in the digital format compared to a physical text, and Jarndyce reflects just that. Entering the shop, it appears extremely orderly and visually appealing to the prospective buyer, however, stepping into the library in the back offices tells an entirely different story. What appeared to be a chaotic mess of books, loose papers, and textbooks was really a thoughtfully organized catalog of centuries of priceless English literature. Opening up first editions of Dickens’ work and seeing the wear and tear of decades of enjoyment forces you to reconsider the true value of a text, especially as time goes on. It was an important reminder to consider the value of a text within its given time. Not just when the story is set, nor when the time when it was written, or even the time when you read it for the first time, but when those who came before you first read it themselves. This was most fascinating in the books that were previously used in libraries, as the physical conditions told a story in and of themselves; hundreds of people enjoyed Dickens’ stories without knowing who had the book before them or who will after them. These 100+ year old books told more stories than just what was written in them, and truly embodies the beauty of a physical novel beyond the scope of words.

Overall, what resonated the most with me about my time in London is the very idea that there is no such thing a a "typical Londoner." Not only this, but Dickens' work inspired the realization that millions of people have lived, live, and will continue to live in such an incredibly diverse community. Learning and understanding that London may not have always been the metropolis of diversity and equality it is today has given me a newfound appreciation for a city once a stranger to me. While I’m sure this will not be my last word on London I can't help but wonder what my time in Paris will reveal!

Traditional Grub From the City of London

Growing up in Korea and moving to America at 8, I’ve always been in a fast-paced environment. In preschool, we were already mastering our 12x-12 multiplication table. By 1st grade, we were comfortable with long division; at this point, we had long been walking the streets to school on our own. Coming into America, I was forced to learn English very quickly, only spending a year and a half at ESL and quickly learning with high-achieving classmates. From all this, I’ve learned to value my time– it’s one of those things you can’t buy or get back… you only have so much of it. 

Because of this, I like to walk fast. I don’t like to wait long, and I certainly don’t like it when people are consistently late. Sometimes, I like to eat quickly and knock as much as possible out of the day. Perhaps this is the American way. Perhaps this is a fault of mine. 

Walking into Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, I was utterly excited to see the place Dickens imagined Sydney as a frequent visitor. The very pub that he visits and then leaves to go sobbing back on his bed! I explored the area we dined in and then went downstairs to find even more seating. Upstairs, there’s a very special first edition copy of A Tale of Two Cities proudly hung on its wall. 

However, downstairs is where I imagine Sydney Carton and Charles Darnay to have their tense conversation– the cramped, cool space equipped with a bar, with Madame Defarge in the corner, knitting. It is also downstairs where the bathrooms are found. The very bathroom where Carton reprobates himself with pure hatred: “Why should you particularly like a man who resembles you? There is nothing in you to like… You hate that fellow” (Dickens 90). In that same bathroom (albeit I was in the ladies' room), I could just picture Carton leaning over the sink and muttering these words. 

In this eccentric old pub, an original copy of A Tale of Two Cities is proudly hung on the wall and decorated with some fitting old decorations and cartoons. But once I found my way about the little treats of the pub, I found myself getting rather impatient. As mentioned before, I value my time and waiting for what felt like an absurd amount of time to be spent for lunch made me a little antsy. Mind you, as a group of 12 in a small pub, with one waiter serving all its customers, it was undoubtedly not the waiter’s fault. Eventually, the food arrived.

As the novel mentions, Carton and Darnay find themselves having a “good plain dinner and good wine” (Dickens 87). Our lunch was undoubtedly plain. Having ordered the Steak and Ale, I found the meal mildly comical. As a huge foodie, I found myself sitting with mere peas, mashed potatoes, and a cute little pie on my plate. “Vegetables” on the menu referred to a small mound of peas on the side. 

It’s funny to think that these characters were likely conversing with such kinds of foods on their plates. But what does any of that matter? Carton was undeniably more focused on his wine. 

---

Not ARF!

Possibly my favorite decoration at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

Literature Revived

In the distinctively early grey mornings of London, before our day started with the official lectures and explorations, I often walked around Russell Square and found a refuge in St. George’s Gardens. Formerly an 18th-century graveyard, St. George’s Gardens is now a lovely, quiet refuge from the breakneck pace of the city, where moments seem fleeting — although always charming. The modern mind is discursive and temperamental, but the classical mind is unfaltering in its concentration. This is perhaps my favourite thing about London — these little diversions from the fast-moving world in the form of little gardens scattered through the city like gems in a mine. Escaping to these hideaways scattered throughout the city allows me to return to the crux of Dicken’s story and will enable me to be transported back in time to the late 18th century, the years when The Tale of Two Cities is set.

It reminds me of Dennis Sever’s need to flee to a recess of yesteryear in the personal museum he curated. Stuck in time, this beautiful house is a shrine to the days of Dickens. The attention to detail — flaxen hair caught in the teeth of an ebony comb, framed newspaper clippings warning of a terror stalking the streets of London (who we know today as Jack the Ripper) — stirred up false memories of the people who occupied these hallowed rooms.

Paper signs declared that “some can see it and others can’t”. Before I entered that house, I was a “can’t”. This experience, in combination with the history lessons every morning, has finally allowed me to embrace the novel entirely and move between its pages to occupy the world Dickens so masterfully paints with his meandering descriptions and fully-fledged characters.

Visiting the Charles Dickens Museum was equally enlightening. We received the incredible opportunity to move through those rooms straight out of another century. The museum was filled with lovely illustrations and artefacts from Dicken’s time. It was astounding to realise that one of England’s greatest writers produced many of his significant works in those rooms. Pages and displays of his actual handwritten work decorated the antique wallpaper. Vestiges of Dickens’ world are also found peppered throughout London, a city with breathtaking juxtapositions of Old London against the new. Parliament buildings flush against the Gherkin, cobblestoned pavements breaking into tarmacked main roads, creaky wooden doors plastered with graffiti and concert posters.

And despite its metropolitan status, London also boasts of beautiful museums and galleries rife with history. The British Museum, the Natural History Museum and the National Gallery all held beautifully curated rooms that revealed histories of not only England but its tryst with the world and its colonies. The British Museum and the National Gallery seem almost lavish with their spoil for choice and the sheer amount of artefacts, statues and arts squeezed behind glass casings. The Parthenon Sculptures, sourced from the temple of Athena on the Acropolis in Athens, were particularly my favourite. The frieze displayed stories and as someone enrolled in this program centred around the evocative power of words, I found it interesting to see how important attention to visual detail was, even back then and even now. Although the museum is rightfully controversial for pillaging artefacts from other civilizations and countries, I found it hard to deny the cultural significance of the museum and its careful appreciation for the world's combined heritage. It was bittersweet — this acknowledgement of the British Empire's plunder and wonder at the beautiful curation and display of world history.

The Sondheim Theatre, another beautiful landmark rife with history, once scarred by the atrocities of war, is where we attended a stunning production of Les Miserables. The musical show brought the streets of Paris to life before I even stepped foot in France. My appreciation for Hugo’s words gained a newfound purpose. Despite the chasm between the stage and our seats, the performance felt intimate and real, and the reactions of the invested audience to the tragedies and comedies of the musical elevated the experience to an entirely new level. The beautiful arches and red velvet hangings, along with the brilliantly and intricately crafted sets in the Sondheim Theatre, helped create a cocoon that cut out the real world, and I found myself not wanting the musical to end. After traversing Hugo's great novel and the scintillating musical show, Jean Valjean’s untimely demise was all the more painful.

London was a beautiful haven, one that I am regretful to leave as we move onto Paris for the next three weeks. As we departed onto Gare du Nord and bundled off into taxis to our new homes for the coming month, however, I am eager to uncover the secrets of a new city.

Whence the Echoes Come

Preface: In this post, I say many disparaging things about Los Angeles and many nice things about London. I reserve my right to speak badly of the city I belong to, and acknowledge that whatever I say negatively about Los Angeles here, I return threefold in my love for it. Londoners may or may not agree with my analysis of their city, since it is rather idealistic, and many of them are rather not. They too reserve their rights to hometown whinging, and I would never dare to deprive them. This piece is an intellectual response to an emotional quandary of the past week, and should be considered in that light. The LA sun will always shine brightly.

Dickens wrote of the echoing footsteps of the future bearing down on his protagonists in their quiet Soho refuge. Fear and anticipation of the tumultuous world to come haunted these characters in an almost spectral way. Walking through London today, I do not hear the footsteps of the future, but those of the past.

At night, leaning against a building which predates even the notion of my nation, as the city veers finally homeward and the quiet slowly grows, I can hear the faint sound of footsteps echoing through the otherwise sepulchral neighborhood. Footsteps. Not the sticky crackling sound of tires on the pavement, not the low hum of an engine, not a wailing siren. Footsteps: an unmediated sign of life.

A place that is promised and a place that simply is. I live in the promised land, or at least a promised land. Alta California, the Golden State, was a place of great wealth, a harbor against the bitter chill of the East and Midwest. Americans were supposed to find their salvation here. We were a material Zion. But places of great promise, when they fall short, create a base and bitter resentment. Too many Americans grudge California every one of its faults, because it doesn’t live up to the dreams of its founding legend. London, in what seems to me a stark and radical contrast, holds little pretense at all. Of course, on the surface, there are grandiose facades to which no people, whatever their history, could ever live up. But the actual substance of the city itself is frank, honest.

In a world focused on the future, in the promised state of the promised nation, what choice do we have but to yield to modernity? What choice do we have but to reject the old ways and embrace the new? What choice do we have but to encase our meager river in cement, but to again widen the freeways, but to strike the iron again and again? We built a city that contained the very soul of the American Future, and it is a devastatingly lonely place.

Here in London, I have seen what a city built for people (not corporations, not real estate trusts) can look like. I can walk ten minutes and see the convivial. I can see people laughing together, sitting under sycamore boughs. I can see a human richness foreign to the furthest dream of my sprawling valleys.

This kind of denseness perpetuates a literary mode of existence. A certain kind of writer may be tempted to think that in order to achieve greater verisimilitude, a kind of mimetic inaction need occur (or rather not occur). Life can seem plain and boring, and it can seem that nothing ever really happens to anyone. A writer would need to eschew a sequential plot with action and tension, in order to achieve that depressive sense of stasis. It is a misguided thought, of course. Great, terrible, awesome, sublime, dramatic things happen every day, worthy of those great Aristotelian words Hamartia, Anagnorisis, Peripeteia, Catharsis. It is the writer’s job to find the ones worth telling about. This was Charlie Kaufman’s thesis in his film Adaptation. I don’t think it’s any great accident that these were the feelings he struggled with after moving from New York to Los Angeles. It is a place with so many people, separated from each other so severely, that a kind of surreal despondency overcomes the reality of our human geography, and we turn on the one hand to frivolousness (our main export), and on the other hand to alternate mimetic strategies. The alienation of the west makes it the great home to the American sect of magical realism.

In a city so tightly packed, you are forced to live among, to exist facing outwards. To drive in a car, to frolic only in one’s own private lawns, to hide from passersby across vast stretches of road, is to conceal oneself subconsciously from the other members of the community. The writer’s advantage in a place like this, where the display of humanity is a public good, is not only to see and become inspired, but to be seen.

Reading A Tale of Two Cities, or any book, is primarily a solitary endeavor, but bookpacking these places, I have found, is everything but. Shrinking away from London feels like a futile exercise, and as a constant practice would require true sacrifice to maintain. At every moment I am thrust into the social spheres of this place. There is no option to look away and pretend that life does not continue around me: antithesis to the solipsist. In bookpacking, these feelings of immediate relation are magnified by the closeness of the historical relations of the novel. There is a constant sense of “so it was here” or “so it was like this”, when I see Soho Square or The Old Bailey. The veil of academic distance is removed in a profound way, and I am reminded why the academic studies of these works appeared in the first place: because they are so immediately and truthfully borne from the experience of these places. It is a dialogue, to read a book in its very setting. You get to ask the cobbles constant whys, and if you look closely, you find answers. There is no alienation there, even across a gap of two hundred years. The footsteps of the past still echo loudly here.

A World Away From Home

““You put yourself out there in the truest way you can and hope others do the same. You’ll connect or you won’t, but you did what you could.””

— Chris Crutcher

As I try to get down to the nitty-gritty and format this website, I find myself sitting in frustration. Sitting in the hotel room at Bloomsbury, I find myself impatiently waiting for the site to load. Perhaps it is my American ways or merely my own privilege. Still, I can’t stand the idea of wasting time just waiting when there is so much to see, so much to do, so much to experience…

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This week, we’re walking around the streets of London, visiting the places that inspired Charles Dickens to create such wonderfully relatable characters within A Tale of Two Cities. We’re exploring the lively city where Charles Dickens spent almost 4 decades of his life. We’re visiting all the places of historical importance, along the places he mentioned, and even walking through what used to be his house, now called the Charles Dickens Museum. 

Only having a week in London, I feel myself pushing to do as much as I can, as quickly as I can– trucking along with cup after cup of tea to keep me functioning enough to check the next thing off the bucket list. Unfortunately, the heat wave got the best of me the first few days. I found it a little harder to adjust than I expected, with the time and currency change and being a little homesick. 

The gate holding Queen Elizabeth II safe– The flag at the Buckingham Palace was raised… the Queen was home!

Royal guards facing their Sentry boxes (side note: royal guards have to be at least 5’10”– from behind the fence, they barely look like they’re 5 feet!)

Even so, the places we visited this week kept me going– the rich British history, the beautiful buildings, and the head of Oliver Cromwell. We saw the flag raised for Queen Elizabeth II and visited Poet’s Corner in Westminster Abbey, where Dickens was buried with other influential writers. We also visited the Charles Dickens Museum (as mentioned before), where the famous opening line of A Tale of Two Cities lies on its walls. 

Below are some of my favorite places we visited.

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Cromwell v. Charles

At the House of Commons, we have a statue of Oliver Cromwell, who played the role of Lord Protector from 1653 to 1658. On the other side of the street, parallel to Cromwell is the head of Charles I. As he was beheaded, the statues are shown facing each other, almost as if they’re still facing each other off today. This historical image resonates with you– it’s almost as if you can hear the crowd groaning as Charles is executed. Yet, as history goes, you can also see the consequences of the execution, both good and bad.

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Manette Street

How can I leave out Manette Street? Found in the Soho area, we find the garden and the house the Manettes supposedly lived at. There used to be an arm-and-hammer there, but walking around, we unfortunately could not find a replica. 

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Les MIS Showing

Not wanting to spoil any of the book Les Misérables for myself, I refrained from watching the movie. But having finished the entire book, I was excited to see how they would condense 1456 pages into a 3-hour performance. 

Personally, I loved the performance. It’s always interesting to see how the producers interpret and spin around the story to create their own work of art. In particular, the Thenadiers in the performance bring a light air to the audience. I found myself laughing countless times due to their comical conduct, whereas in the book, I was more than frustrated by their sinister treatment of the people around them. If you ever find yourself near a showing the Les Mis, I strongly encourage you to check it out. However, if I hadn’t read the book before watching, I would have been incredibly confused by the plot.

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Overall, the class so far has pushed me to step out of my comfort zone. Besides having moved from Korea to America when I was 8, I have not traveled out of the country, let alone by myself. Yet, I still find myself having a great time. I’m exploring all these new places, immersing myself in the history of Britain, and learning about the posh British culture that doesn’t mind waiting an hour everyday for their lunch. I’m excited for the days to come and hope I can get the most out of this class. 

Now… on to Paris.

The Paradigm of Travel

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.”

— Mark Twain, The Innocents Abroad/Roughing It

Words cannot sum up the waves of elation and fear that I cycled through before coming to London. I experienced highs and lows that were tough to recover from. I knew to expect some degree of culture shock, but I also hoped the fact that I spoke the primary language would lessen this. Upon arriving at Bloomsbury after an extended plane ride, I was met with historic buildings lining every block and countless cafe and eateries. Underneath these gothic and baroque buildings was a lively and cosmopolitan city. Reading A Tale of Two Cities shaped my expectations going into this experience. I foresaw the pretentious nature embodied by Stryver, the deep emotional repression characterized by Carton and Mr Lorry, and the heated loyalty comically portrayed with Miss Pross. As with all stereotypes, these were grossly overstated and simplified. At every restaurant and street corner, I found some genuinely kind and welcoming people. Coming from the midwest but going to school at USC, I have seen some of the best and worst people. What I have found in this city and its inhabitants is nothing but a genuine love for their country and an appreciation for the beautiful city they call home. One look inside Fortnum & Mason did confirm the poshness, but I’ve learned it derives more from an appreciation for culture and history than anything else.

A Tale of Two Cities presents London in a somewhat negative light. Dickens describes it as “old-fashioned..very small, very dark, very ugly, very incommodious” (55). I can see hints of what would bring about this description, but on the whole London is not this at all. Visiting old buildings gave me a far better idea of what it would have been like for the characters of A Tale of Two Cities to venture about and live their life. Some of these buildings appeared smaller and packed in tightly with other buildings. Despite this, there is much beauty to be found in these locations. On Friday, we explored a highly realistic portrayal of a London house from this era. The house (Dennis Severs’ House in Spitalfields) was remarkably well kept and accurate to the age, and it conveyed a true sense of the era. From the rumpled sheets to the freshly buttered bread on the table, there was a deep sense that someone had just been there and lived this life. The house was gorgeous, with plush chairs, vanity mirrors, and four poster beds. I can imagine there was a significant variance in the houses of the time, but even this modest house was a place you could call home. I can easily see Lucie Mannette lounging in the reading room and sitting with her husband, or Doctor Mannette seeing patients in the house. Houses like these have long disappeared from London in the face of modernization, but many old buildings still remain. The original city of London still holds the bones of centuries past. The great fire has changed a lot, but just walking around, you can see the blend of old and new elements. There are gothic financial buildings seated next to towering high rises. The city has done a great deal to maintain the deep history it holds, while still embracing advancements. Every destination we walk, I try to picture the characters of A Tale of Two Cities sitting where I am. I imagine Mr Lorry walking out of Tellsons to the bar, or Carton sitting in a pub and drowning his pain. Dickens does a fantastic job of creating well developed characters, but his location ability to craft a sense of the culture and style of London deserves recognition. Bookpacking has brought his words and characters to life by bringing us to the setting.

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Another expectation I went into London with concerned weather. I have seen lovely photos of an overcast sky and drizzle, and I’ve heard many complaints about the unrelenting rain. What we were greeted with instead was a heat wave with two record-setting days that plunged into the 100s. Coming from a state where reaching 100 was an average summer, I was surprised by how unprepared London was for the heat. Metro stations shut down, museums closed, and national weather advisories were announced. I will admit weakness (against my proud Chicago blood) and say that it felt HOT. The usual layer of clouds was nowhere to be found, so there was no break from the heat except to seek shelter for lunch in a historic pub known as Ye Olde Cherschire Cheese (pictured to the right). We all enjoyed some truly British food in the pub and mentally recreated the many nights Carton and the other characters would have spent here. We fought through the heat for the sake of our daily walks and explorations, but it became difficult. The gloomy and ominous setting of A Tale of Two Cities is mirrored by the brewing anger of the people. In one section, the heavy rain is directly compared to the masses rising up and taking to the streets. Every character in the book knows that a storm is coming. The revolutionaries are building up their numbers, and this will all come to a head in 1789. I was hoping to channel this angst with dark clouds and intermittent rain but was met with a much different landscape. The heat eventually cleared and we were treated to a cool and overcast day on Thursday. Everyone in London seemed much more at home with this melancholic weather, and we were able to walk in relatitive ease with the temperature drop.

It’s difficult to travel to any foreign country and neglect to discuss food. London food has always had the reputation of being bland, overcooked, and certainly nothing to write home about. I did engage in my fair share of truly British food (meat pie, peas, etc.). It was well made but compared to the fantastically tasteful home dishes of other countries, it was unremarkable. This isn’t to hate on London, as the food scene is stellar. There are countless food markets offering cuisines from every country in the world. During our stop at the Borough food market, I had a Chinese bao and Indian Chana masala. Both were incredible and highly representative of the variety of food offered. There is an entire Chinese district in Soho, Brick Lane in the east end is known for its celebration of Bangladeshi culture and food, and there are countless multicultural food markets like the Upmarket which are devoted to offering cuisine from around the globe. The food scene in London left nothing to be desired, and it speaks to how far the city has come in terms of diversity. I never expected to be introduced to some of my new favorite dishes in London. The city described in A Tale of Two Cities was old and unwelcome to foreigners. The London I found was far different, and was filled to the brim with diverse restaurants and stores representing every corner of the globe. Every city is known for areas that represent other cuisines. Chicago has Chinatown, Detroit has Greektown, and Little Toko and Koreatown are well-known areas of Los Angeles. London extends beyond this. Though there are specific areas representing different cultures, it is harder to find an area that DOESN’T have restaurants catering to every country. The popularity and quality of these casual and sit-down dining options speak to the diversity of the area. It is difficult to picture the characters of A Tale of Two Cities faring in a city with such a diverse and well-rounded food scene and population. I never had a dissapointing meal, and it was a highlight of my trip that I wasn’t expecting. Thankfully, Paris is also a food capital and so my foodie heart has something to look forward to there as well.

It is dangerously easy to filter every new city and country we visit through the frame of reference of our own. This often creates a bigger emphasis on what is lacking. When first arriving at London, I was dissappointed by the lack of ice and the consistent absence of air conditioning. I do miss these, but keeping an open mind is key to discovering all the uniqueness found in each new country. London was an absolute adventure. I love the rich culture that can be found in the many museums or even just walking along a street. I love the many food markets which introduced me to countless new dishes I hope to find back home as well. Most of all, I love the creativity and dynamism that you can feel pulsing through the city. Where else would our group stumble upon a streetwide salsa dance class and be offered an entire bottle of wine? I have a great appreciation for the US, and this appreciation has only grown from the week I have spent in London. The world is big, and I hope to spend my life exploring every corner.

In the Streets of London

In the streets of London, I see a group of girls about my age, dressed in some of the most out-there, “Instagram worthy” fashion I’ve ever seen. They pass in front of a church that was built in the Middle Ages, standing proud among the cosmopolitan wonderland below. I hear them chattering, as they plan what club they want to visit on this Thursday night. On this same street, for centuries prior, young people our age have done the same in different forms—whether they were going to a ball in the 19th century or a rock concert in the 1980’s—London nights seem to have always been and always be lively.

In the streets of London, I see an immigrant family walk down steps to the London bridge. They speak in a language that isn’t English, yet it’s obvious through their body language that they’re locals, going on a stroll. Above them is a blue plaque which tells me the steps we’ve passed are the steps where the character Nancy from Charles Dickens’ Oliver Twist was murdered. Plaques like these are everywhere in town, marking important historical sights. Some tell you the sites of historical events, while others show you where influential Londoners have lived. In the house where Charles Dickens once lived now lies a branch of the British Medical Association. As time passes who knows what it’ll be next!

In the streets of London, art lives in every corner. On my free nights, I take the tube around town to see last-minute shows for cheap. I see my favorite musical, Wicked for the first time and bawl my eyes out; taking in the surreal experience of giving myself a gift I’ve wanted since I was a kid. As I watch the show, its storyline about the corrupt, bourgeoise government of Oz reminds me of Victor Hugo’s descriptions of France in Les Misérables, and through my experience, so far in seminar, I discover new things about the show I’ve loved for so long. The next day, I visit Camden Town for a concert. I explore the town and geek out over its historical significance to London’s music scene, as I see the streets where one of my favorite artists, Amy Winehouse once lived. At night I go see another artist I love, Yola, perform. I hear her voice soar over the disco-soul and country sounds of her music. Between songs, she tells jokes that involve British politicians I know nothing about, and I feel like a foreigner in a sea of British culture—I love every minute. The day after, I see the musical version of Les Misérables, feeling like an expert on the plot of the show after having read the behemoth of a novel. 

In the streets of London, a stone’s through away from our hotel and across from a Korean restaurant is the British Museum—a treasure trove of artifacts from across the world. As I walk through the various rooms of the museum, I see art from ancient Greece next to statues from the Assyrian Empire and get excited when I see Japanese Noh theatre masks, which I learned about in a class at USC. As I look around this museum where admission is free, I see people from all walks of life—lots of tourists and some school groups, but everyone united to revere history. History is alive in this museum, and it lives on through everyone who comes to visit. It certainly lived in me as I saw the content covered over the years of history classes I’ve taken come to life before me.

Image Courtesy of Dennis Severs

In the streets of London, a man wearing a rainbow flag pride pin welcomes me to an artist’s recreation of an 18th-century home, and as I take in the sights and smells that lie within, I see an 80’s home computer tucked in the corner just behind an authentic 18th-century tea set. As I look through the “Dickens Room”, I see in my mind’s eye the characters of our novel A Tale of Two Cities, running through the author’s mind. As I walk the house; I hear the sounds of a fictional family fill the halls, and I imagine what Charles Dickens’ childhood must have sounded like, looked like, and felt like. Suddenly, the people who inhabit A Tale of Two Cities become living breathing humans, as their lives took physical form right in front of me.

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Here, it seems the past and the future coexist in a symbiotic way. Somehow, Londoners seem to have not just made peace with their past but celebrate it while still welcoming the future. London is high rises among buildings that date as far back as the 11th century, and Londoners seem to have embraced that peculiar image. As this city changes in various ways, its history stays in the forefront.

As we use A Tale of Two Cities as a travel guide of London, I’m seeing how integral literature is to the fabric of this city. Great English literature informs so much that I’ve seen, from the little Paddington bears in tourist shops to the “poet’s corner” in Westminster Abbey, London loves to honor its cherished literature in tandem with its rich history, and it shows in every corner. As we walked into various streets, we see the name Manette above us, the name of one of the characters in the novel. From something as little as a street sign, we understand that London seeks to honor and celebrate its history and influential figures.

I end my stay in London visiting a childhood friend who moved here when we were ten years old. The last time I visited her, we were kids and I barely remember it, but I do have the photos! I see her home, her neighborhood, and meet some of her friends—getting the local Londoner experience through her eyes. I feel so grateful to have had the opportunity to see her again since the pandemic stopped us from visiting each other. I get a taste of her life for a day and cherish every moment.

Juxtaposition

London gave us a warm welcome. Maybe a little too warm, as the 100+ degree temperatures on our first two days of exploration made me realize how much I took for granted two essential things that England seems to be in short supply of: water fountains and air conditioning.

Despite the high temperatures, we powered on, making our way through London’s political and legal centers. For Charles Dickens, we started where he ended. His body lies in Westminister Abbey, marked with a simple dark stone. We took a tour, partially motivated by the idea of seeing the abbey and also drawn in by the promise of air conditioning. It was absolutely incredible, with beautiful stained glass windows and intricate carvings.

I was fascinated by the fact that Dickens is buried mere meters away from the very political figures that essentially ran the country he commented on. At the beginning of the second book of A Tale of Two Cities, Dickens takes some time to describe Tellson’s Bank. He paints it as a small, stuffy, unattractive place, and he uses this description to provide insight into England in the year 1780. Based on my observations from this past week, his critique of England’s old-fashioned ways remains true to this day; however, remnants of the old are not-so-smoothly blended with reflections of our modern era.

On a surface level, ornate palaces and buildings line the streets, intermixed with modern architectural feats like the Gherkin. Walking down the streets feels like walking through centuries of construction and reconstruction. Lloyd’s Bank, which has been around for hundreds of years, is housed in a building that closely resembles the hi-tech style of the Centre Pompidou in Paris: All the guts of the building are on the outside, and the entire building is done in exposed steel.

We spent our second day in “legal” London. Walking past the Old Bailey, I could imagine the many trials that took place there, including the fictional trial of Charles Darnay. Jerry Cruncher would have walked in to deliver the note to Mr. Lorry, and Lucie and Dr. Manette would have sat inside as witnesses to the Darnay’s alleged crimes. Once again, it was quite interesting to see such an old establishment in a buzzing international metropolis. This is a place where people used to be sent to Tyburn to be hanged if found guilty, and now they’re being tried for modern crimes.

From there, we made our way to Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, which is officially my new favorite restaurant name. Not exactly my favorite restaurant, but the inside was incredible to see. The hard wooden benches, antique paintings, and creaky wooden floors helped me envision Charles Dickens coming here back in the day. Although I did not take a picture with the plaque marking the space that was supposedly his favorite seat in the pub, I was able to photograph the original copy of A Tale of Two Cities enclosed in a glass case. It was even turned to page 54, the exact page where Sydney Carton and Darnay go for a drink at a pub. According to the path Dickens describes them taking from the Old Bailey to the pub, the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese is predicted to be the pub in question.

With Wednesday came overcast skies and a drizzle of rain. I was glad to finally have a slice of what I expect when I think about London weather. Ducking into a side street on our walk, we looked at an old inn where coaches would have stopped to transport passengers. Seeing this old inn helped me envision what Mr Lorry’s journey by coach might have been like. In true London fashion, the juxtaposition between the old and the new could be seen there. A brightly colored sign describing upcoming events for this summer stands in front of this 17th-century inn.

Later on in the day, we made our way over to St. Paul’s Cathedral, the current site of Temple Bar. It was an odd sight to stumble upon Temple Bar—a historic structure that once stood on the Strand—wedged between two random buildings. I could just barely get a glimpse into the room atop the archway, which used to be a bookkeeping room for a bank. This suggests that Dickens might have used the bank that occupied this space as inspiration for Tellson’s. After all, his vivid descriptions indicate a high level of detail that appears based on truth.

On Thursday, we truly dove into Dickens as an author. We started off at Jarndyce, an antique bookstore specializing in 19th-century texts. I was shocked to see that these precious first editions and rare books were not locked up, but rather exposed to curious hands. Being able to flip through an original copy of A Tale of Two Cities felt like touching history. As we all took pictures with our modern phones, I was once again reminded of how sharply the old and the new are contrasted here.

We continued on to the Charles Dickens Museum on 48 Doughty Street. More of a house rather than a museum, I loved walking through the halls where he walked and passing the desk where he worked on his novels.

Prior to watching Les Mis at the theater, we walked around Soho Square and located what is believed to have been the inspiration for the Manette house. We also discovered that the alleyway behind it is now aptly named Manette Street. Walking by, I could hear the footsteps of those who walked around us, similar to the many footsteps heard in the novel.

Stepping into Dennis Severs’ House on Friday afternoon, I got a final glimpse of modernity mixing with history. Everything in the house looked so recent yet so old. The duvet on the bed was untidy, as if someone had just woken up and left the room. All the food at the table was real, and someone had taken two bites out of the piece of toast. Finding our way back out of the house through the candlelight, we exited onto the street and back into the modern world.

As we begin to explore Paris in a few days, I’m curious to see if there will be such a significant contrast between the old and the new. Will skyscrapers cast shadows over 17th and 18th-century architecture? Will modern companies occupy ornate and historical buildings? I look forward to finding the answers to these questions as we dig deeper into A Tale of Two Cities next week.